JACKSON, Wyo. – April and Annie’s excited barking awoke me out of a deep sleep. What could get the red heeler and collie mix so riled up when it was barely 7 a.m.?
I slipped out of bed and pulled the curtain back from the sliding glass door to see the dogs running back and forth as a dozen or so elk steadily made their way across the gravel driveway between the main house and the guest cabin where my husband and I were staying.
“Charlie,” I whispered. “Come and look at this.” He stood beside me as I slid the door open so that just a screen and the cool morning air separated us from the herd mere yards away. A couple of the creatures looked toward the cabin when they heard the door crack open, but they continued on their path to a great open expanse leading into Grand Teton National Park land that abuts the property of our friends who live just west of the Jackson airport.
You’re never far from signs of wildlife and natural beauty in northwestern Wyoming, but late summer is a particularly sweet time to enjoy both. After Labor Day, the lines of cars into the parks have dwindled, but the air is still warm during the day, and the nights are refreshing.
A number of the summer amusements, such as rides on the aerial tram and gondola, will end this year Sept. 5. But you can still fish, hike, cycle, go rock climbing and horseback riding and enjoy the area’s lakes and streams.
For art lovers, there’s another reason to make Jackson a destination: the Fall Arts Festival, which this year will be held Sept. 7-18. Originally started as a business promotion to keep tourists around during the slow days between the end of summer and the ski season, which doesn’t kick in until December, the event has become a major draw for artists and collectors alike.
If you only have a long weekend to visit, you’re going to need to do some planning and prioritize what you’ll pack into your three days and nights in Wyoming. You’ll also have to decide whether you’ll focus more on in-town events or nature.
Because we love Western art and artists and hadn’t been to Jackson in several years, we zeroed in on art. Each day, we started out with an outdoors activity and then spent afternoons and evenings in town.
It was a good formula, because the mornings were crisp and clear, perfect for a hike and boat ride on Jenny Lake one day, fishing the next and golf on our last afternoon.
Among the art forays was a tour of the National Museum of Wildlife Art’s outdoor sculpture trail and more than a dozen indoor galleries, and lunch at the onsite Rising Sage café. Another day’s focus was on the furniture and accessories shown by artisans at the Western Design Conference, followed by the Palates and Palettes, when downtown Jackson galleries team up with restaurants to have open houses where wine and food are served as guests look at featured exhibits. It seemed like half of Jackson’s residents attended, judging from the way people greeted each other as they strolled among dozens of downtown galleries, looking at paintings, sculptures and photography.
It was a similar scene when locals and visitors alike turned out for the annual Takin’ It to the Streets juried art fair, featuring 40 local artists on Jackson’s iconic town square, with its signature elk antler arches at its corners. The show and sale, on Sept. 11 this year, is held concurrently with Taste of the Tetons, where patrons buy tickets to sample small plates from Jackson chefs.
Inspired to create
Artists have long been inspired by the dramatic beauty of the Tetons to draw, paint, photograph and sculpt. Sketches and paintings by Albert Bierstadt of the Teton mountains and Thomas Moran of Yellowstone in the late 19th century helped give Americans their first look at the mountains, canyons and geysers in the region. Moran’s images, along with findings from Ferdinand Hayden, director of the U.S. Geological Survey and Hayden Expedition, and photographs by William Henry Jackson, helped convince Congress to designate Yellowstone the first national park in 1872.
Grand Teton National Park was founded in 1929, but only the mountain peaks and some valley lakes were protected. Dogged work followed from John D Rockefeller Jr., who bought and donated thousands of acres of land for what would become Jackson National Monument. A number of Wyoming interests opposed the park expansion and land conservation, but years passed and tourism increased, with Congress voting to add the monument land to the park’s acreage in 1950.
Much of the early art shown in Jackson galleries took the form of realistic landscapes and portraits of the area, but now there are as many styles represented among the artists and exhibition spaces here as there are types of collectors.
When artist Jim Wilcox and his wife Narda moved to the area in 1969 and opened a gallery, there was only a couple of other art purveyors in town. Today, there are more than 40.
“As the galleries got more numerous, they attracted better artists and collectors,” says Narda Wilcox, who along with her sons and husband operate two galleries. “There’s a lot of wonderful, serious art here.”
“It’s an inspiring area — so beautiful with so many things to,” she says. “When you hike a few trails and watch the sun set on the mountain, the area gets under your skin.”
“It used to be that come Sept. 1, they’d roll up the sidewalks after the kids went back to school, but the colors are so beautiful and with the elk bugling, and bears, it’s a wonderful time to be here,” she adds.
Into the wild, with a guide
The wildlife and nature so evident in artist interpretations in galleries are also easily accessed in real life. The tricky thing when you have limited time is to figure out what to do, which is why it’s easy to fall into the trap of heading into Grand Teton or Yellowstone national parks, driving to a parking lot and then venturing only a mile or two into the area.
One way to venture farther and take the guesswork out of where to best experience the flora and fauna — or just find the best trout stream — is to have a guide. There are plenty for hire in Jackson.
Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools has been offering tours year-round for decades. The excursions run from half-day to multi-day trips. The company’s three-day elk-bugling, wolves and bears fall “safari” into Yellowstone departs from Jackson and goes into the park’s Lamar and Hayden valleys, where the elk attract wolves. Bears are preparing for hibernation by stocking up on food, so they’re easier to spot than at other times of the year. Three elk bugling trips are planned this year and all include lodging, meals, park fees and equipment for viewing the wildlife.
“Fall is my favorite time of year,” says Nick Delmolino, communications director for Teton Science Schools. “The aspens are golden, and the elk bugling is a real treat to experience in the parks. You can get snow in September, but temperatures are usually very pleasant.”
Visitors can get lucky and see elk at a variety of places, as we experienced, but there are advantages to having a leader. “Our guides are out several days per week and can say, for example, that they have seen a certain bear or a group of elk in an area,” Delmolino says
In addition, the guides — many of whom are trained biologists and zoologists — understand what is going on with an animal’s behavior. They can explain that to visitors, who are at a safe distance in a seven-person vehicle with a roof-top hatch that lets them view the creatures and take photos without disturbing the wildlife. (Details at tetonscience.org)
September is also the favorite month for Adam Long, general manager of Brooks Lake Lodge & Spa in Dubois, 65 miles from Jackson. Lodges and guest ranches offer the types of all-inclusive amenities that people have long visited the West to experience. “From mid-August on there are no bugs, there are still some wildflowers out and the fishing is great,” Long says.
The lodge opened in 1922 as a stopover for tourists traveling to Yellowstone, and the original building is still standing. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places, and summer is a busy season with fishing, hiking, horseback riding and archery.
With rooms and cabins that accommodate just 36 people, the lodge this year is catering to fall visitors who want to get both a nature experience and a dose of culture with a four-night Fall Arts Festival Day Out package Sept. 7-11. Guests will alternate between being at the lodge and going to arts events Sept. 9 in town, and have lodge meals, activities and transportation to and from town included. (Details at brookslake.com)
With the competition fierce in Jackson Hole among outfitters vying for ways to give visitors new experiences, the Four Seasons came up with one that takes advantage of the area’s low light pollution: small group stargazing trips in Grand Teton National Park. The evening starts with wine, cheese, dessert and hot beverages as the sun sets. Then as night falls, guests take turns viewing stars, planets, the moon and more via a telescope. (Details at fourseasonsjacksonholewy.com)
That trip — with its transportation, snacks and telescope — is no doubt deluxe. But you can also probably find your own secluded place to set up a couple of chairs and see the constellations. It’s the type of viewing experience that try as they might, artists will have a hard time duplicating. If you’re lucky, you might even hear some elk bugling in the distance.
IF YOU GO
Get out and play
Spend time looking at the websites for Grand Teton National Park and Yellowstone. You’ll find ideas on meals and lodging (from camping to cabins to hotels) as well as a list of ranger stations and visitor centers, rules and regulations. Note that hours at some of the centers are reduced after Sept. 5. Both parks offer a number of free scheduled activities, from guided hikes and walks to nature talks. nps.gov
Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools leads a variety of excursions ranging in length from a few hours to a few days. TheFall Elk Bugling, Wolves & Bears Expedition will be held Sept. 15-17; Sept. 29-Oct. 1 and Oct. 6-8. The trips leave from Jackson and include equipment, transportation, meals and lodging. tetonscience.org
Stargazing in Grand Teton National Park is another opportunity for seeing things in a different way. The Four Seasons has evening outings in which small groups are taken to a location in the park, and treated to food and beverages while enjoying the sunset. When night falls, stars, planets, the moon, galaxies, comets and nebulae can be seen through a telescope. fourseasonsjacksonholewy.com
Now in its 32nd year, the Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival is an 11-day celebration featuring art shows, signings, demonstrations and special events in more than 50 galleries, presenting the work of artists from around the globe as well as local talent. Events are spread throughout this year’s Sept. 7-18 festival, with most happening during the weekends. Jacksonholechamber.com; 307-733-3316
The Western Design Conference is held in conjunction with the arts festival and is a showcase and sale of Western motif furnishings, fashions and accessories from 130 artisans, Sept. 8-11 at the Snow King Center, 100 E. Snow King Ave., Jackson; westerndesignconference.com
Eat
For breakfast, lunch and daily brunch, check out Cafe Genevieve, where the salads, sandwiches and wraps at lunch are reasonably priced, tasty and filling. They serve dinner, too. 135 E. Broadway, Genevievejh.com; 307-732-1910
One must-try for dinner is Snake River Grille which has indoor and outdoor dining with an inspired menu that makes you want to make a meal of first courses (potato gnocchi, corn and lobster soup) and small plates (steamed broccolini, hand cut steak fries with smoked gouda and bacon). But then you wouldn’t get to try such entrees as king salmon, crispy pork shanks and buffalo steaks. Best idea: go with a group and sample numerous dishes. 84 E. Broadway, snakerivergrill.com 307-733-0557
Drinks with a view
Visit Dornan’s in Moose, north of town, and you’ll be rewarded with killer views of the Tetons either from inside the Spur Bar or on the rooftop deck. Restaurants include a pizzeria and chuckwagon, and also on property are a shop with fine wine, a market for groceries if you want provisions for your campsite or cabin, a fly fishing shop and more. 12170 Dornan Road, Moose, 307-733-2415; dornans.com
The Granary Lounge at Spring Creek Ranch sits on the Gros Ventre Butte, which gives it an elevated view of the Tetons, and it has live music some evenings. Restaurant specialties include elk tenderloin and Idaho trout. 1800 Spirit Dance Road, Jackson, 307-733-8833; restauranteur.com/granary/
Best bars for dancing and music (and sports)
With its famous saddle bar stools, Western memorabilia, knobbled-pine decor and silver dollars inlaid on the long bar, Million Dollar Cowboy Bar is a Jackson Hole institution. Live country-western music and dancing six nights a week. 25 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307-733-2207; milliondollarcowboybar.com
The Silver Dollar Bar at The Wort Hotel was designed and built using more than 2,000 uncirculated Morgan silver dollars from the Denver Mint. It has indoor and outdoor seating with views of downtown. Live music is featured in its showroom Tuesday through Saturday nights, and they have a big screen TV for watching weekend football games. 50 Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-733-2190; worthotel.com/silver-dollar-bar
Stay
Rough it and camp, go luxe with a variety of historic or high-end properties, or try the all-inclusive lodge or ranch experience. Don’t be surprised to get some sticker shock. Even after Labor Day — and particularly when events are going on like the arts festival — rooms in the $400-plus range at historic and boutique properties are common in Jackson. For a good overview, visit jacksonholechamber.com
To get some Jackson history, check out The Wort Hotel, which opened in 1941 and is celebrating its 75th anniversary. It is named for the Wort family that first came to Jackson as homesteaders in 1893. A fire in 1980 threatened to destroy the hotel, but it was rebuilt and reopened the next year. It was named to the National Register of Historic Place in 2001. Be sure to check out the vintage photographs line the hallways on the ground floor. 50 Glenwood St., Jackson, 307-733-2190; worthotel.com
The Four Seasons is a five-star experience at the ski area in Teton Village. While guests come for ski-in and ski-out ease in the winter, the property offers creative packages in the summer and fall, such as excursions into the national parks that include a yearlong parks pass as well as breakfast each morning. 7680 Granite Loop Road, Teton Village, 307-732-5000; fourseasonsjacksonholewy.com
