Hamburgers (Tavern Style)

Don't think "oh, it's just another burger recipe" and ignore this. Sam Sifton saved our burgers. They've gone from wishy washy and uninspiring to juicy and delicious...all because we learned not to touch the meat. You too can achieve burger perfection; just follow Sifton's tips to the letter (and watch the video).

I don't see the need for oil or butter. If you sprinkle salt on your cast-iron pan, fire it up and put in the raw burgers, they immediately render enough fat/juice to start sizzling and form a nice carmelized crust too. I use 85% lean beef.

Like so many NYT recipes, this is internally inconsistent: the introductory text says, "Season after the meat is in the pan." The recipe itself says in Step 1, "Season aggressively with salt and pepper." then, in Step 2, "Put hamburgers into the skillet."

I admit the basic point - don't squash the meat - is retained, but does no one read the entire copy on these things?

Magnificent! Bought a cast-iron skillet especially to try this approach to burgers. Used the skillet on our gas BBQ grill outside. The reward - the best burgers we have ever made. Would never cook a burger any other way now. Thanks Sam!

Good technique here, but one crucial step missing: putting a thumb print in the burger before setting in pan. The thumbprint keeps the burger from turning into a self steaming dome (hence the terrible gray meat effect). Because SCIENCE! I also (gently) mix a small amount of Duke’s mayo (high egg content) and fish sauce into the meat for extra fat, and a deep, rich umami taste. I know fish sauce sounds weird, but it really works with small amounts. No one knows it’s there but you!

The purpose is to allow the juices to settle back throughout the meat. During its cooking the moisture in any meat moves toward the heat source, i.e., the surfaces where it's hottest. So if you cut the meat immediately after cooking, all those juices that are sitting right at the surface will quickly run out and your meat or chicken will be drier than it would otherwise be if you let it rest. At least this is what I learned in culinary school.

Better method: get your broiler red, scary hot. Put gently hand-formed patties in an oiled skillet you get super hot on the stove - cast iron is good, but so is a heavy bottomed All-Clad aluminum. Stick your pan under the broiler and watch those patties char and plump up like ground beef souffles.Flip after a few minutes and cook on the other side.You can deglaze the pan with sherry or cognac, add some worcestershire sauce and a dab of butter and pour that over the burgers before serving. Great.

Ever notice how your burgers 'shrink' around the edges, bulge in the middle and get smaller than the circumfrence of your buns? Well, after you form them to the basic size you want make a thumb sized depression in the middle. Pop em on the grill or in your hot pan and go. They will cook more evenly too.

These really were the best burger I have ever made. Who knew that such a simple recipe could produce such deliciousness? Both my husband and I had to restrain ourselves from eating a second burger.

This is a testimony to how good technique and simple, but quality ingredients, can trump more complicated recipes with lots of steps and ingredients.

WOW.

The transition from cooking smash burgers to tavern ones is sometimes rocky. It's a different process. Use a little less meat next time, maybe?

What about the timing for medium?

Best way to also enjoy your burger with a char broiled grilled flavor is to put the skillet directly on your outdoor grill, instead of your stove top burners. Put the burgers in the skillet, and then on the grill, set on high and close the lid and cook accordingly. Love the flavor and crustiness of the exterior.

These burgers were absolutely marvelous. My only recommendation: To prevent the smoke alarm from causing more excitement than cooking really needs, open the windows.

At the Clover Grill in New Orleans, they cover their burgers with a hubcap while also doing everything else you say. They do start with a frozen patty (!). Those burgers have always been the best of the "tavern burger" style. I firmly believe in covering the burger.

I agree, no need for oil or butter, even using 7% fat ground beef as I do. In addition to coarse salt in the pan, I grind peppercorns into the pan. I also add salt and pepper to the top, uncooked side as the bottom cooks.