No crab? That’s it. Cancel the holidays.
“We have had crab every Thanksgiving for the last 17 years, ever since my wife and I have been married,” said Dennis Watts, a senior technical recruiter in Hayward. His family doesn’t do the traditional turkey or ham for the holidays. They do crab: crab salad, crab grilled-cheese sandwiches and basically “crab with crab.”
“The disappointment is epic,” he said, making sure to emphasize “epic.” He was not kidding.
In fact, Watts and seven friends had a crabbing trip scheduled next week on a sport fishing boat out of Emeryville. But the California Fish and Game Commission voted Thursday to postpone the state’s recreational Dungeness fishing season for up to six months because the crustaceans have tested high for toxic domoic acid — which might as well be called “demonic” acid. And the commercial season, slated to begin Nov. 15, is also in jeopardy.
All this has Bay Area crab lovers stewing.
“My family is devastated,” said Megan Schooley, a math teacher in Benicia. “I am 35 years old and for over 40 years, my family has had crab and ravioli for our Christmas Eve dinner.” As an alternative, she may resort to salmon or rock cod for the festive feast. “You gotta do what you gotta do.”
To those who don’t care about crab, this may seem merely a first-world problem with an easy fix: Have, say, meatloaf for your holiday meal, or pay the price for out-of-state crab. But it’s indeed a huge deal — not only for the state’s fisheries, but many seafood-centric restaurants are scrambling for backup plans, some crab-feed organizers are alarmed, and folks with deep-seated holiday traditions are seriously sad.
So what’s a crab lover to do, other than, well, being crabby? We asked a few top local chefs to shell out some ideas for home cooks on substitutions/alternatives for holiday meals. Bottom line: It’s time to get creative.
Clam up
Chef-owners Liz and Fred Sassen of Oakland’s Homestead Restaurant are looking at options for their annual pre-Thanksgiving crab feed. “You can’t have a crab feed without crab, but we’re still going to do something festive,” Liz Sassen said. “We’re in talks about getting some very clean, sustainable clams and mussels from the cooler waters up north. We’re kind of thinking of doing a clambake.”
If home cooks do have their hearts set on shellfish, Sassen says, there’s plenty of shrimp to be had. “There’s plenty of hearty West Coast fish, shrimp, clams, even oysters. You could do kind of a crab-free cioppino. Do a little stew or a shrimp bake. Basically, you’re looking for that sweet shellfish flavor. There’s nothing like Dungeness, but get creative.”
Love some lobster
At the San Jose branch of the The Fish Market restaurant and seafood mart, it’s tradition to open at 5 or 6 a.m. on Christmas Eve day for their annual holiday crab sale, selling thousands of pounds of the delicious delicacy.
“But this year, it might be a lobster sale instead,” said general manager Jennifer Ventura, who says plans have not been finalized, but if the crab crisis continues, cracking a few lobsters will be a good backup. “What the crab offers is more than just the eating of the crab,” she said. “It’s the sitting around the table, cracking and peeling the crab, taking the time to be together. Lobster can provide some of that feel.”
James Beard Award-winning chef Loretta Keller (Bizou, Moss Room, Coco500) runs Seaglass at the Exploratorium, and also suggests lobster as a solution. “There’s an abundance of them right now,” she said. “Just embrace the East Coast crustaceans. They’re at reasonable prices. So try a lobster risotto.
“Take the shells and roast them and make a really concentrated stock, then use that in the risotto,” Keller said. “It really intensifies the flavor. Put a little onion or leek in there, a little basil drizzle at the end. Maybe some late season tomatoes.”
Other crab
If crab is a must, buy Oregon, Washington or Canadian crabs, Keller said. Places like 99 Ranch Markets, with locations around the Bay Area, are selling Washington state Dungeness right now — currently at prices around $6.99 to $7.99 a pound. Or you could order Maryland blue crab meat shipped in. Or you could always go — gasp! — canned.
“It’s not like you won’t be able to get any crab at all,” said Kevin Weinberg, executive chef and co-owner of the Walnut Creek Yacht Club. “You’ll be able to get crab for the holidays, but it will come from out of state. And likely be more expensive. Or you can order crab cakes out of Maine. Or Dungeness that’s been fresh canned.”
Liz Sassen admits she’s a die-hard Dungeness fan, and lobster and shrimp are just not the same. But she also looks on the bright side. “If (crab restrictions) go for the whole season, it will make next year that much more exciting.”
Contact Angela Hill at ahill@bayareanewsgroup.com, or follow her on Twitter @GiveEmHill.
