I had a realization recently that I learned something specifically from my dad: sometimes life is suffering.
In July I went on a trip with him, just us on a cruise ship for eleven days along with about 250 other people in their 60s and older. It was strange and calming, fun, a little spooky. Our first destination was Dublin, it was uncommonly warm and my dad took my picture in front of some flowers. We had lunch, Irish stew and a Guinness, in the restaurant that James Joyce met his wife.
On the second day a woman in our tour group tripped over a small door stopper and fell, hard. I turned around to see her face down on the ground like she’d been shot, arms akimbo, and another guest slowly trip too, over her body. He was fine but she spent the night in an Irish hospital and came back with a crutch, two fractures in her leg and one in her elbow.
The day before we had all introduced ourselves to each other, and she shared that she’d been cast in a local community play as a certain character of which she’d give us a clue to who it was. Leaving no time for anyone to guess, she cackled shockingly loud, everyone jumped a little and was briefly confused, then she revealed wicked witch of the west.
The third day after dinner we went to the lounge for live music, then on our way back to our rooms we noticed many of the housekeeping staff heading toward the dining room. Someone had puked all over the floor just in front of the entrance. So much puke, everywhere.
*****
We went from Ireland to Scotland, our first stop the beautiful little town of Luss. We walked through a cemetery with viking grave markers from the 10th and 11th centuries, 18th century headstones of people and a few pets. I stood on the shore of Loch Lomond and for a moment I felt the ghosts and my ancestors, energy churned across my back.
When I was on the ship I floated around, unencumbered by anyones interest in me, except for maybe some of the staff. My fellow guests had little to no interest in knowing me and I appreciated that. Coming out of the prime of my youth I’m still mostly fatigued by strangers wanting to know much about me. Only a few of the folks in my tour group were curious about why I was there, everyone else almost eager to ignore me. I took pleasure in noticing that, and sat back without any need for guarding myself.
This was the most time I’ve ever spent with my dad, in my whole entire life. We ate every meal together, had wine every day, and played many games of gin rummy. It was uneventful and it was good. Only one night at dinner did we talk about our lives, my childhood. The details don’t matter, but we were both honest.
The beauty of Scotland is unreal, I’m not worthy of trying to describe it. It was powerful to be a witness to it. There was a retired doctor of geology on board who gave lectures on the terrain and on the history of how Scotland formed, the many volcanoes that created it’s breathtaking mountains, it’s treeless fields, it’s cold waters. Some of the rocks in Scotland have been dated over four billion years old.
In The Orkney Islands we had a tour guide named Melba, a tough older lady who laughed and talked shit easily. Her Scottish accent was the most classic Scottish accent, thick and all her Rs rolled musically. She was proud of these islands she was from, and said that she and her fellow natives don’t think of themselves as Scottish but Orcadian, a different origin and history than her fellow Scots. She had a certain optimism I admired that was invigorating among the grey skies and strong winds of Kirkwall. I felt a kinship with her and an admiration for her.
*****
About halfway through the trip I started to feel a little nag of disappointment that I hadn’t had a big moment, some life changing realization, some heavy crash of wonder. I was able to not let that nagging grow too big, but I admit I did want that. Even with a couple delicious moments of feeling the spirits of my ancestors, I wanted something more, something bigger.
*****
We spent a lot of time on the North Sea. I stood on the deck every day watching islands go by, gazing at the deep dark water chopping against our ship. Sometimes the wind was so strong it would push even me around. I let my hair down and it whipped into knots.
I really wanted to see whales. I’d make my vision soft so I could take more of the water in, aggressively hoping for a show from some ocean beasts, but eventually would go inside when it wasn’t happening even though I was sure they’d show up as soon as my back was turned.
After a few days of this, I did see a whale. Only one, and it was only a leisurely glimpse of its massive back, a small flip of its tail. I gasped and waited for more, but there wasn’t more. My dad already in for the night, I went back to my room and thought about what the whale sighting could mean. What message was the whale sending me? These holders of history, these ancient creatures.
It’s in the small stuff, you. You’re looking for a big show but the secrets are in the small stuff. You’ll miss the magic if you only look for something big.
*****
We saw so many castles and beautiful gardens. Occasionally my dad and I would leave tours and walk around on our own. We ate Haggis in Edinburgh and watched a local bagpipe and drum band, their music tuning in to my heartbeat and churning my blood, goosebumps as I briefly felt like I could fight an army with that music behind me. My dad starting to give way to some of his mannerisms that historically slightly trigger the kid in me, but this trip changed that a little (I think). Mostly I felt unaffected and stayed the course.
*****
My dad has always had this, I don’t know, *thing* attached to him. A thing that I have too. This thing that cuts everything with a bit of suffering. I think he’s tried, like I have, to remove it from himself but it’s always there. Looking for something bad even when things are not at all bad. This depression that can’t be shaken, but that you learn to live with. An anxiety that gets lit like a torch with just the smallest bit of tinder. Joy is hard sometimes. It’s gotten easier over the years but this *thing* still lives with him, lives with me. Lives with my siblings.
I’ve realized recently though, that it might have equipped me to survive. Like I think it did for my dad. In the deepest, hardest parts of life there was a version of myself that has kept moving my legs through the waist deep mud. And only recently did I begin to get a broader sense of it, of the secret nature of it, the unknown origin. A ghostly energy. That maybe it isn’t even ours, we just have to live with it.
*****
Our first stop in England was the small town Alnwick. It started out a breezy, sunny day and we had a breezy and sunny tour guide. I can’t remember her name but she was younger than our past guides, and seemed to enjoy immensely meeting everyone and talking about her town. We went to Alnwick Castle, it rained a lot, we moved on to Alnwick Garden. Waiting for a tour of the Poison Garden, my dad chatted with our lovely tour guide. He shared that he had many ancestors from England who had immigrated to America in the 19th century. When he told her where they lived she said “oh interesting! Whenever I hear of people from that area taking that massive journey, I’m never surprised. It was such a hard life to live in that region, away from any coast. It was the Reaving Lands, dealing with reavers regularly…people who came to take their belongings as they pleased. It was really a challenge to carve out some piece of life there, but I always thought maybe it…gave them some kind of…sturdiness, to leave and seek out a new life.”
There it is.
*****
The rest of the trip I thought about those ancestors. What they looked like, what their personalities were like. What their days were like. I imagined myself living their lives, being in their skin. Waking up to grey skies and working all day. Living with this *thing* that felt like an albatross was across their shoulders all day, all night. But something else lived there too. Something that made them think there was more, a churning in their backs too.
They kept moving through the mud and are still moving, through me. Maybe I’ve gotten it wrong this whole time and this thing is them, living with me, living in me. Across my shoulders, around my waist, in my blood; pushing me through the mud, whispering joy exists.