Bangs can make you look instantly younger—but what looks good on Zooey Deschanel may look like a greasy mistake on you. Jim Markham, stylist and founder of ColorProof Evolved Color Care, explains how to match your fringe to your face shape for optimal results.

If You Have a Square Face…
"With a square-shaped face, the goal of the fringe is to counteract the hard angles and soften features," says Markham. Try bangs that narrow the forehead (side-swept styles are especially good for this). Another option Markham suggests is a full fringe that hits just below your brows at the center and gradually gets longer on the sides, maintaining a wispy feel. This, he says, will soften strong jaw angles. Finally, remember this rule above all else: Keep fringe light enough to allow some of your forehead to peek through. This will give bangs movement and help maintain softness.

If You Have a Heart-Shaped Face…
When your forehead is wider than your jaw line, Markham says the goal of your bangs should be balancing out the bottom half of the face. Again, a long, side-swept bang is great. "This cut has a balancing effect since it draws attention away from the chin and toward the eyes," says Markham. He recommends asking your stylist to add some long face-framing layers to create movement.

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If You Have a Round Face…
Round-faced girls typically shy away from bangs because they have a reputation for making a full face look fuller. But Markham says that doesn't have to be the case. He recommends sticking with longer, more tapered side-swept bangs to give the illusion of length. Equally important is what styles won't work; when it comes to round faces, Markham says to stay away from wispy styles (think Hilary Duff circa Lizzie McGuire).

If You Have a Triangular Face…
Women who have a wider, squarer jaw line and a narrow forehead should go for a bangs that get longer as they reach the outside of the face. Markham says to keep it "slightly wispy and texturized to help conceal a narrow forehead." The triangular-faced girl's worst enemy: heavy, blunt bangs. Markham says they will further accentuate the jaw.

If You Have an Oval Face…
"These lucky ladies have many options," says Markham. He says that of all the face shapes, oval offers the most versatility when it comes to fringe because of the proportions of the shape. From blunt bangs to side-swept and everything in between, Markham says you can get away with bang experimentation.

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The Style That Works on Every Woman
Markham says heart-shaped bangs look great no matter what your face shape. "This ultra-flattering fringe starts slightly longer on the sides and subtly curves with the brow line [but falls just below it], descending down to meet just above the bridge of the nose," says Markham. Imagine a heart drawn with an extremely shallow point, with pieces longer in the middle and shorter just above the brow. Celebs like Kerry Washington, Lea Michele, and Rashida Jones have all sported this style of bangs—and they’re Markham's absolute favorite.

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