Travel

A Design Lover’s Guide to Rotterdam, Netherlands

The second-largest Dutch city provides plenty of cultural excursions, historic attractions, and strikingly modern architecture
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Rotterdam, Netherlands.Photo: Querbeet/Getty Images

Rotterdam often takes a backseat to Amsterdam in terms of attracting cultural tourism. But for wildly innovative design, this port city is a standout. Creatives have long been drawn to the artistic freedom bubbling in a place that became almost an architectural blank slate after the historic center was flattened during World War II. Tilted, cube-shaped homes resembling funky tree houses (designed by Piet Blom); a housing project in the shape of an open paper clip; Daan Roosegaarde’s smog-removing tower; and De Rotterdam, a “vertical city” with a triad of cantilevered towers conceived by OMA (the firm founded by Pritzker Prize–winning architect Rem Koolhaas), are but a small sampling of Rotterdam’s radical creations. We explore stylish, chic, and daringly designed venues, as well as those spots blending traditional surroundings with a contemporary aesthetic. Take a look at Architectural Digest’s guide to Rotterdam and, if you’ve already planned a trip to Amsterdam, hop on the train for the quick ride to a city whose central station will take your breath away.

Where to Stay

Mainport Hotel Located in the Maritime district, with stellar views of the delicate Erasmus Bridge and the skyscraper-dotted skyline, Mainport celebrates Rotterdam and its influences from far-flung lands. Designer Feran Thomassen referenced every continent by giving each corridor a different symbolic motif. In the sun-filled lobby, a compass dominates the ceiling, and one wall is splashed with a world map illustrating sea routes throughout history. From $136/night; mainporthotel.com

Pincoffs Hotel Rotterdam Many of the evocative historic details of this 19th-century former customs building remain and blend with the hotel’s contemporary style. The walk-in safe, fireplaces, and steep staircases have been preserved, and more than two dozen original doors were transformed into furnishings, including a writing desk and a daybed. Among the modern design features is an avant-garde reception desk of cardboard honeycomb panels and papier-mâché, and furniture in the Maarten Mees Suite fashioned from car tires and other recycled materials. From $124/night; hotelpincoffs.nl

Hotel New York Aptly named for the former waterfront headquarters of the Holland America cruise line, from which emigrants once sailed to New York, the hotel is ensconced in an early-20th-century building. Ephemera from that time period, such as suitcases once owned by Holland America employees and passengers, decorates the public spaces as do maritime artifacts (teapots, tableware, and menus) housed in glass display cases. One mode of transport to the front door—water taxi—couldn’t be more scenic. From $168/night; hotelnewyork.nl

Where to Eat

Dertien The rustic-chic decor of this restaurant owned by young chefs Pepijn Schmeink and Remco van Erp fits in with their locavore, nose-to-tail cuisine. The two constructed most everything by hand, including a concrete communal table and wood benches repurposed from found items from various shops and work spaces. Especially creative is the 3-D wall menu spelling out the dishes almost like a Scrabble tile rack. Schiedamsevest 30; dertienrotterdam.nl

FG Food Labs Dutch interior designer Mehdi le Mair created a stunning arched space in the former Hofplein train station, using contrasting materials (a shiny tin ceiling pairs with rough recycled-wood walls) to reflect the strength and the gregariousness of the acclaimed chef and owner, François Geurds. A nod to the travelers who once passed through this station, the bar top has a suitcase-inspired look, with leather pieces and brass studs. Katshoek 41; fgfoodlabs.nl

Las Palmas Housed in the former Holland America warehouse, Las Palmas, helmed by celebrity chef and owner Herman den Blijker, melds the industrial with the stylish and the whimsical, thanks to Dutch architect Robert van Oosterom. Hanging from the raw concrete ceiling are dazzling, circa-1950s, Czech crystal chandeliers. On the walls, specially designed tiles bear crimson images of crabs and langoustines, using original 17th-century gravure on paper. The open kitchen and Carrara marble bar stretch almost the entire length of the restaurant, providing visual excitement aplenty. Wilhelminakade 330; restaurantlaspalmas.nl

Where to Drink

Aloha The Tropicana, a defunct water park popular with local families in the 1990s, was resurrected as Aloha, a trendy bar/coffee roaster/restaurant that, appropriately, radiates a tropical motif, complete with a terrace lounge overlooking the river Maas. The owner, Femke Snijders, along with designer Sophia van den Hoek, balanced the old hardscape with midcentury West Coast Americana elements, such as a surfboard and a black Artifort couch. Maasboulevard 100; alohabar.nl

Bokaal This brewpub exudes an urban aesthetic that appeals to the eclectic crowds flocking here for the diverse selection of beers (more than 100), mostly from Belgium and the Netherlands. Vintage Dutch tiles handmade in Friesland line the walls, while the shelves are recycled railway sleepers. Old doors double as tabletops, as do wine barrels from Valencia, Spain, on the spacious outdoor terrace. Nieuwemarkt 11; bokaalrotterdam.nl

Café Labru Owner Femke La Brujeere-van Doren is passionate about the vintage finds she’s collected to furnish the bar she co-owns with her husband, Raimond. Copper candleholders, organic-shaped lounge chairs by Pastoe, Gispen club chairs from the 1950s, and immense wall clocks sourced from Rotterdam’s squares all contribute to the retro yet elegant vibe. Known locally as the “living room of Rotterdam,” this laid-back bar attracts everyone from expats to musicians and artists. Hartmansstraat 18a; +31-10-737-1205

What to See

Markthal One of the most distinctive farmers’ markets around, Markthal (Market Hall) is an immense horseshoe-shaped hangar where the walls and vaulted ceiling are covered with a boldly hued mural of fruits and vegetables by artists Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam. Piercing this psychedelic inner space are windows from which residents of the building can gaze down on the floor crowded with trendy restaurants, a supermarket, and food stalls. Ds. Jan Scharpstraat 298; markthalrotterdam.nl

Sonneveld House Considered one of the best examples of the Dutch Functionalist style, Sonneveld House, designed by architects Leendert van der Vlugt and Johannes Andreas Brinkmann, offers the public a peek into the life of a prominent Rotterdam family of the 1930s. Everything in the natural light–filled interior is in keeping with modernism, including Gispen’s signature tubular steel furniture. Currently, an artist-in-residence program examines how the house influences contemporary art. Jongkindstraat 12; huissonneveld.nl

Kunsthal For Rem Koolhaas fans, his iconic exhibition space showing everything from sculpture to photography, both old and new, is a delight to behold. The renowned architect mixed marble, parquet, and other premium materials with the inexpensive, such as rugged tree trunks and corrugated plastic. Steep ramps traverse the curtain-walled building, linking the different exhibition spaces that have distinct personalities: Daylight interacts with art in one, while another space appears to float. Museumpark, Westzeedijk 341; kunsthal.nl

Where to Shop

Groos Selecting works solely from Rotterdam artists, co-owners Tjeerd Hendriks and Joost Prins Groos relish promoting undiscovered local talent. Among the products from more than 150 suppliers showcased in this bright, airy, and inventive concept shop: Marleen Elenbaas’s innovative leather bags and Studio Thomas Voorn’s boldly patterned “tapestry” wallpaper. Schiekade 203; groosrotterdam.nl

& Surprising and unique artisanal products—many from Rotterdam—are what the Dutch design duo Elwin and Nynke van der Hoek look for when stocking &, their shop-studio. Fun and creative items abound, including paper sleeve vases and folded lampshades, both by Pepe Heykoop. Lenneke Wispelwey’s ceramics bear geometric folds, and collectors, both local and from as far away as Japan, stop in to purchase her limited-edition pieces. Zwaanshals 520; en-designshop.com

Contemporary Showroom Anyone enamored of high-end art and design pieces from the 20th century should make this showroom their first stop. Owner Jarno Kooijman personally curates the rare, the elegant, and the distinctive found here. His collection includes a sensual rosewood bench by Brazilian designer Jorge Zalszupin, luxurious Murano chandeliers, and some exclusive Italian pieces, including a leaf floor lamp in brass by Tommaso Barbi. Zaagmolenkade 41-42; contemporary-showroom.com