Seven out of ten women are allergic to their perfume - could organic scents be the answer?

By Rebecca Howard-dennis

Updated:

Model sprays perfume on her neck.

Could your favourite fragrance be bad for you?

For a society that's so concerned with what we put on our plates and smear on our skin, it's incredible how little we know about the scents we spritz on every day.

Not that it's entirely our fault. Unlike the food and cosmetics industries, which are carefully monitored, fragrance houses aren't legally obliged to display a full list of ingredients on their packaging, thanks to secrecy laws designed to safeguard each scent's unique formulation.

While ignorance might be bliss, a survey revealed 74 per cent of women will at some point in their lifetime have an allergic reaction to at least one fragrance.

It's unsurprising then that more women are seeking out organic alternatives to their signature scents.

But if you thought organic on the label necessarily means organic in the bottle, then think again.

'Because the organic beauty industry isn't subject to the same legislation as the food industry, there is still a lot of "greenwashing" out there,' says Josephine Fairley, co-author of The Green Beauty Bible: The Ultimate Guide To Being Naturally Gorgeous.

Greenwashing means that a manufacturer wants to make its product sound more eco-friendly.

'When I tested fragrances for the Beauty Bible, I was struck by how many so-called 'organic' scents combined organic essential oils with easily detectable synthetic ingredients.'

The trouble is that while synthetic compounds and chemicals are known irritants and some perfume ingredients, such as synthetic musk, are even persistent organic pollutants - detectable in aquatic life and riverbeds - they also give scents complexity and that all important staying power. Without them, organic fragrance tends to be insipid. 

'Of all the fragrance families, organic floral blends tend to fade most quickly,' says fragrance expert Roja Dove. 'Citrus colognes last a little longer, but all too often organic fragrance falls back on lashings of patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood just to give the scent some body.

'As a result, they are often indistinguishable from each other.'

Until now. A new generation of perfumers are rising to the organic challenge and creating scents without the use of synthetic chemicals.

Leading the charge is Olivia Giacobetti with her 100 per cent organic five-fragrance collection Honore des Pres.

Approved by Ecocert, which recognises standards in organic and natural beauty, Sexy Angelic, £89 (www.lessenteurs.com), has notes of almond and angelica seed.

It is overtly feminine, smelling of sweet, warm skin, and is incredibly long-lasting despite its intrinsic lightness. 

Eau naturelle: Organic perfume is less likely to irritate the skin

Eau naturelle: Organic perfume is less likely to irritate the skin

Equally as impressive is Nu Green, an aquatic fragrance. Normally achieved only by using synthetic notes, fragrance-philes who like fresh, clean scents will love the zingy mix of fresh mint and tarragon blended with botanical tree musk sourced from India.

Fans of powdery scents will love Tsi-La Misaki, £90 (www.beingcontent.com).

While the lavenderrich opening smacks of old-fashioned Yardley, spicy notes of black tea and rich, earthy moss break through to give this scent an unexpected modern twist.

While it's certified 95 per cent organic by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the mix of essential oils do fade fast. Strange Invisible uses 100 per cent organic, beverage-grade grape alcohol in each of its 22 scents.

Upside

The organic beauty and personal care industry has been growing at a rate of 15 per cent annually for the past 15 years

 

For a full-bodied and luscious, fruity floral, try Prima Ballerina, £120 (020 3075 1006). It's mouth-watering blend of big rosy blooms, aromatic sage and sharp lemon drew compliments all day long.

So, will we be seeing the big fragrance brands trying their hand at organic scents anytime soon?

'That's highly unlikely given the ongoing success of conventional fragrances,' says Roja Dove. 'But don't think they aren't paying attention.'

After all, this trend is all about offering the consumer a lifestyle choice - once more people start choosing ecologically-friendly fragrances, every perfumer will be jumping on board the organic bandwagon.


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