Saffron's chef deserves spotlight

• 3 stars out of 4
• Address%3A 131 W. Market St. Telephone%3A %28502%29 584-7800. Web%3A saffronsrestaurant.com
• Cuisine%3A Persian. Alcohol%3A Full bar. Vegetarian%3A Yes. Price range%3A Moderate.
• Hours%3A Monday-Friday%2C 11 a.m.-9 p.m.%3B Saturday%2C noon-9 p.m.%3B Sunday%2C noon-8 p.m.

There is the frequently bandied-about belief that our city has more and better restaurants than any city its size. I don't know how to verify or debunk the more or the better, but I'm positive that there are umpteen Louisvillians who would try their best to run you out of town if you dared question either. True or not, the belief helps fuel the passion for exploring restaurants and getting to know local chefs.

Louisville is a hotbed of adventurous chefs and equally adoring diners who want to elevate their favorite chefs to stardom, both in town and on loftier ground. That's exciting for the chefs and for diners. Whether it's a lack of savvy public relations people, inauspicious timing, too many chefs in the crowd or just bad luck, some extremely talented chefs get lost in the frenzy.

Hamid Alamdari of Saffron's is one of those chefs. But I think he may be breaking out of the underappreciated, underrated pack of top kitchen honchos.

Saffron's Persian menu is a delectable connection to one of the world's oldest and most influential cuisines. There's no artifice or frivolity about Saffron's menu. Alamdari doesn't over-elaborate flavors and clearly elucidates the difference between timid and judicious in his use of spices.

Dinner at Saffron's last week was my friend Trish's initiation to Persian food. Like many first-timers, she assumed the food would be overly spiced. When she realized it wasn't, she became intrigued by the subtle punctuations of spices such as turmeric and saffron.

Complimentary sabzi, a plate of watercress, cucumber, parsley, scallions, radishes and feta, accompanied by warm pita bread, was placed on our table within a couple minutes of our arriving. Our server, Victor, functioned like a guide through the menu, offering explanations and suggestions. I have been to Saffron's several times, but hearing him describe the dishes was almost like being treated to a menu tasting.

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Beldercheen (grilled quail, $9) was distinct for its perfectly balanced marinade of lime and saffron. A little side of carrot juice was more than enough for me, not a lover of carrots once they hit a juicer. But, I grant that it was a fresh and pretty extra to the quail.

For me, eggplant is an uninteresting, leave-behind appetizer. I'm glad Alamdari wasn't hesitant with his inclusion of more than a trace of garlic, onion and mint. The cashke bademjon ($7) was more than the bland dip I expected.

Borani (sauteed spinach and onions with yogurt, $6), hummus ($7), koofteh berengee (herb rice balls with tomato and tarragon sauce, $7), dolmeh (grape leaves stuffed with ground beef, rice and split peas, $7), tabbouleh ($6) and Greek salad ($7) fill out the assortment of appetizers.

Saffron's stews (koresht, $17) are robust and wonderful. I remember from a past meal the koresht ghaarch (chicken and mushrooms) being a simmered and sensational dish. Trish and I shared the koresht ghaymeh that defied every notion of predictable beef stew. Eggplant and yellow split peas held up their end of the bargain, but tomato sauce accented with turmeric and dried lime provided a distinguishing contrast from any other beef stew. This was the ultimate compare-and-contrast dish.

Mahicheh (braised lamb, $19) was braised in more tomato and turmeric sauce. Too much of a good thing? Not for me. The sauce took on a completely different, but no less remarkable, character when paired with lamb.

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Saffron's has become known in some circles as the kings of kabobs. There are seven choices of kabobs ($17 to $19) — chicken, chicken and ground beef, Black Angus filet and chicken, Black Angus filet and ground beef, lamb shank, vegetable and our choice that evening, charbroiled ground beef. It was lean and tender, fully supporting Saffron's kabob reputation. Neither Trish nor I second guessed our selection, but we couldn't help but wonder, "What if?" about the other six.

Saffron's may be a meat lover's fairyland, but Alamdari and owner Reza Dabbagh haven't neglected piscivores. The "From the Sea" section of the menu includes grilled shrimp salad ($19); salmon barberry (grilled salmon with caramelized onions with saffron and barberry sauce, $19); sauteed mahi mahi (with tomato and shallot sauce, $19); and seafood stew (replete with mahi mahi, salmon, shrimp and scallops, $19).

You can email freelance restaurant critic Nancy Miller at millermadison@aol.com. Follow @WhatNancyThinks on Twitter.