Leather strap or metal bracelet? Mechanical movement or quartz? Investing in your first watch is no easy task, but when it comes to details, the movement and strap are just the tip of the iceberg. The basic stylistic choices concerning watch anatomy pale in comparison to the vast realm of complications, which account for any other function besides the display of hours and minutes. Making your first watch investment can certainly seem like a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be. Rather than combing through the contemporary market to find a unique piece that will stand the test of time, all one has to do is look to the past. Proven resilient and timelessly dapper, vintage watches are a no brainer for new buyers looking to acquire a timepiece without hedging their bets.
Whether it’s the go-to watch of a beloved icon or one with a groundbreaking complication, certain vintage timepieces stand above the rest. In terms of recognition, the Rolex Submariner reference 6538 has remained on the cultural radar since 1962, when the first James Bond film premiered on the big screen. Ian Fleming adorned the suave British spy with a Rolex in the original book series, but the author had never specified a particular model. However, the Rolex watch was clearly no trivial detail. As audiences watched Sean Connery outwit Dr. No, the reference 6538 Submariner quickly became synonymous with James Bond, an association that persists to this day. Aside from being exceedingly rare, the reference 6538 has a particularly large crown and stylish black dial.
In terms of size, the Patek Philippe reference 570 is another classic watch that stands apart from other vintage timepieces. Boasting an oversized dial, the reference 570 is renowned for its deceptively contemporary design. This reference has since been dubbed the “Grand Calatrava” and is a favorite among connoisseurs like John Goldberger, the inimitable watch collector who penned his own 440 page tome on the best Patek Philippe watches manufactured in steel. It comes as no surprise that the Patek Philippe reference 570 makes an appearance in Goldberger’s comprehensive survey. New buyers may find it astonishing that some vintage Patek models manufactured in steel are more valuable than those produced in gold. Steel is not the most cherished alloy and that definitely was the case when the reference 570 first debuted in 1938, but since Patek produced so few steel editions they have become extremely rare. Of course, steel also means the watches are exceptionally durable.
Premiering on the market in 1919, the Cartier Tank is one of the most influential lines in all of watch history. Louis Cartier designed the prototype in 1917 with the goal of creating the first aesthetically beautiful wristwatch at a time when design was an afterthought. The rectangular watch has remarkable crossover appeal, popular among both men and women. Truman Capote, Cary Grant, and Jackie Kennedy Onassis all sported the Tank, while contemporary wearers include Michelle Obama and Ryan Reynolds. The Tank is a worthwhile investment if you are looking to acquire a timepiece that can transition between work and leisure. It’s versatile enough to pair with formal wear as well as more casual styles.
New buyers interested in testing the waters of watch complications will appreciate the functionality of the Jaeger LeCoultre Memovox. Jaeger LeCoultre released the first Memovox in 1950, but six years later the manufacturer made waves with the Memovox Calibre 815, which became the first automatic watch to feature an alarm. After learning of Lyndon B. Johnson’s predilection for alarm wristwatches, it’s speculated that Jaeger LeCoultre sent the President a custom Memovox engraved with the U.S. Presidential Seal in the hopes of replacing his prized Vulcain Cricket. As the story goes, President Johnson ended up bestowing the watch upon an immigrant he was sponsoring for citizenship as a symbolic gesture. The Memovox is an ideal vintage timepiece for buyers looking for something more than stylish design and reliable functionality without too many bells and whistles.
All these classic watches have weathered the contemporary market, showing resiliency in terms of style and durability. Although they can stand up to everyday wear, it’s important to treat your vintage wristwatch with care. An easy precaution to take is to keep watches out of extreme cold and heat. If a tune up is necessary, restoration is best left to the manufacturer, but always confer beforehand. Some makers replace original parts during repairs, which can lower a wristwatch’s value. Otherwise, there’s no need to fret. With proper maintenance and careful wear, you can expect to don a classic timepiece for decades to come.
