Book Review: Korma, Kheer & Kismet- Five Seasons in Delhi

Book: Korma, Kheer & Kismet: Five Seasons in Delhi

Author: Pamela Timms

Publisher: Aleph Book Company

Pages: 175

Price: Rs 395

It's difficult to overlook the spice-laden and other culinary delights tucked away in the numerous corners of Old Delhi, or the walled city if you will. More so if you've been born and bred in the bitter wintry climes of Scotland. So, when her husband's job brought her to Delhi, Pamela Timms decided to not only make it home, but also explore the narrowest bylanes for possible treats. Ever since 2005, when she moved to Delhi, Timms, a journalist and food-blogger, has been chronicling her culinary escapades.

But with Korma, Kheer & Kismet: Five Seasons in Old Delhi, Timms goes a step further to pen a reverential memoir to the holy grail of food-lovers in the capital — Old Delhi. She takes you through every nook and cranny that might hold a delectable promise. Amid the 'medieval chaos' of the food-filled lanes, she discovers the strained spices of Khari Baoli. And tells you that Pt Ved Prakash Lemon Wale's nimbu soda in a banta is what will keep you going on a summer afternoon.

Part of a group called 'Eating Out in Delhi', Timms talks serious food business. You must go to Bade Mian's 100-year-old shop for kheer, experience Moinuddin's melting beef kebabs in Gali Qasim Jan, have Hira Lal's kulle chaat at Chawri Bazaar, and the heavenly chicken korma, biryani and the rich shahi tukda at Matia Mahal to somewhat complete the Old Delhi experience.

What readers must be most thankful to Timms for is laying out the history that backs every delicious mouthful. If you are a food enthusiast (and even if you're not), you will follow her lead and head to Subhash Chowk, off Sadar Bazaar, at 1pm to experience Ashok and Ashok Meat Dhaba's korma. Not happy with the owners' refusal to share their recipes, Timms follows leads over months to arrive at Goggia uncle's house in Sadar Bazaar to find whether it was him, who handed out the recipe to the two Ashoks — both reformed gangsters incidentally.

She fondly talks of her mentor Rahul Verma, street food correspondent for a daily newspaper, who takes her to the right stops. And Timms doesn't just stop at Old Delhi. There's the annual Bengali Ananda Mela during Durga Puja, and a stop at Amritsar that introduces her – and us – to Jaginder Singh Baba's buttery, flaky tandoori kulcha.

The book is also peppered with recipes. Every chapter ends with a delectable recipe. There's Goggia Uncle's mutton korma recipe, Baba Singh's Amritsari kulcha, Kuremal's kulfis, Sita Ram Diwan Chand's chana-bhatura, Mr Naseem's sheer kurma, Bade Mian's kheer, and the Daulat ki chaat, which "relies solely on cold night and muscle power".

Painstaking research has gone into the book, and every second page is filled with ever-so-handy tips. (Goggia uncle takes his bespoke spice mix to the butcher Qureshi when he cuts the meat into the keema). This is a book for anyone who loves food, and who has or will be charmed by the hidden delights of the walled city.

Images from 'Korma, Kheer & Kismet: Five Seasons in Old Delhi', courtesy Pamela Timms.

Images from 'Korma, Kheer & Kismet: Five Seasons in Old Delhi', courtesy Pamela Timms.