This season’s largest waves and among its first rains will be upon the North Coast on Wednesday — with both sticking around until the weekend.
“We are looking at a breaking wave height potentially as high as 20 feet,” said Brian Garcia, a National Weather service meteorologist. “We haven’t seen waves this big since last winter.”
The big waves, generated by westerly winds, will begin Wednesday morning, as will the rain, and both are expected to peak Wednesday evening.
“You could get anywhere from three-quarters of an inch to an inch of rain,” National Weather Service hydrologist Reginald Kennedy said. “It will be on and off for a little while, the heaviest rain will be Wednesday night.”
As the frontal system moves across California and through the local region, expect cooler temperatures, Kennedy said.
“It is typical for us to start seeing some light rain in late September and early October,” he said.
As for large waves, it is earlier than normal for surf this size, Garcia said.
“The storm systems are getting stronger across the northern Pacific, which generates stronger winds and higher waves,” he said. “It might be just a touch early to see things kick up this high, we usually don’t see the 20 foot range until mid-October.”
The beaches expected to see the largest waves are exposed shorelines such as Samoa Dunes Recreation Area, Moonstone Beach, Agate Beach, Humboldt Lagoons State Park and Patrick’s Point State Park, Garcia said.
“It brings up several concerns,” he said. “Obviously, first and foremost, people going near the waves. These waves can easily wash over rocks and jetties and wash people off.”
Other dangers include coastal erosion and debris along the surf, he said.
“If you want to go out and watch the surf, watch it from a distance,” he said. “Don’t get down into the surf.”
On Friday and Saturday, the waves will subside to around 12 to 13 feet high, he said.
The rain will also be ending at that point, Kennedy said.
“Saturday, we are expecting the high pressure to rebuild over the area,” he said. “Down the road for next week, it looks like it will be dry.”
Any amount of rain will be a welcome sight for a parched North Coast region.
According to the U.S. Drought Monitor (droughtmonitor.unl.edu), the area is part of the nearly 59 percent of the state experiencing exceptional drought conditions — the worst classification the organization has. That number is up from the nearly 33 percent figure the group had for the state three months ago. Nearly 82 percent of the state is designated in extreme drought conditions. That is up from the nearly 77 percent figure the USDM had three months ago.
Juniper Rose can be reached at 441-0506.
