Scan the papers on any given day and you’ll clock poor Paris relentlessly being pitted against it longstanding rival across the channel, London—and often branded the less economically and culturally dynamic of the two. Thankfully the view from the ground isn’t nearly as bleak; far from being some fossilized museum, the City of Light remains determinedly vivacious, as attested to by the emergence of new projects like the Berges des Seines and the renovation of the Louxor Cinema. And there’s a slew of newly opened restaurants, nightspots, and cultural openings—all waiting for you to drop in.
DAY 1: 10th arrondissement
Paris's hip 10th arrondissement is home to some of the city's most celebrated shops and restaurants, but thanks to its location close to Canal St. Martin, the neighborhood retains the feel of a cozy village. It's easy to explore its cooler corners within one day.
EAT
Opened by a French couple who learned how to serve top-shelf coffee and organic grub during a stint in Australia, Holybelly is the place to hit with a holy hunger (or hangover). You may have to queue before sidling into one of the funky booths, but the bilingual crew will keep you entertained and the menu, which changes monthly, won’t fail to impress. Try the poached eggs with hash browns with their killer coffee, poured in fluorescent yellow mugs.
SHOP
Paris’s 10th arrondissement may be in the throes of gentrification, but it retains pockets of unfettered quirkiness. Case in point: The Comptoir Général Concept Store, a vast African-themed bar/concept store located in former stables overrun by lush plants, whose vintage decorations call to mind a cabinet of curiosity. Everything here is for sale, so savour a fragrant Secousse cocktail and take home one of the weird and wonderful objects—vintage postcards, bevelled mirrors, old turntables—that give this UFO of a place such distinctive cachet.
EAT
Don’t let Hai Kai's playful, graffitied exterior fool you: When it comes to food, this spot overlooking the Canal Saint-Martin means business. At the helm are three twenty-something girlfriends, including chef Amélie Darvas, who honed her skills in some of Paris’s finest kitchens (L’Ami Jean and Le Bristol). The dishes on the daily changing menu are dainty but pack serious flavors: the pedestrian-sounding starter of chilled broccoli soup with champignons de Paris provoked a flurry of Instagramming on our last visit.
EXPLORE
Converting a huge 19th-century building that once housed Paris’s municipal undertakers into a self-described “space for artistic creation” was always going to be a gamble, especially when said building is located in a deprived area deemed a cultural wasteland. But after a rocky start, le 104 has become a prime destination for family-friendly events and workshops spanning a wide variety of arts (including music, digital, dance, and gastronomy), as well out-there projects by its resident artists, who hail from over the globe.
EAT
Nostalgia is the draw at Le Fantôme, a 1980s-inspired eatery, which serves pizza and beer with a side of vintage arcade games. Once you’ve had your fill of Pong and *Ms. Pac Man,*mosey to the basement bar to down a cocktail or two and perhaps hit the dance-floor—Le Fantôme boasts a fine party pedigree, as it’s run by the crew behind Le Baron and several other of the capital’s top clubs.
PLAY
The Louxor Cinema, an Art Deco beauty, was revamped to much fanfare in 2013 after a 10-year closure and subsequent surreal stint as a kitschy nightclub. The three lushly refurbished screening rooms—the oldest in the city—make a very cozy setting for taking in new releases as well as classics (Brian de Palma’s Blow Outwas a recent draw). Your movie ticket also gives you access to the new bar, where you can sample a selection of natural wines and locally produced craft beers as you admire arresting views of the Sacré-Coeur.
REST
Nestled on what may be the city's sleepiest side street is Hotel Fabric, a delightfully funky spot. Enjoy a coffee in the buzzy lobby, lined with vintage finds from the nearby Folie-Méricourt market, before retreating to one of the spacious rooms. Don’t forget to book yourself in for a free, individual hammam session at the end of the day—the treatment room’s ceiling mimics a starlit sky, like those in Moroccan hammams.
DAY 2: The Right Bank
Cross the River Seine and spend a day exploring the Right Bank, historically the more upscale side of the river, before heading back to the Left Bank to catch up on sleep.
EAT
Handsome boulanger Christophe Vasseur is a bit of an international foodie rock star, and you’ll see why once you’ve sampled the exquisite baked goods at his jauntily retro boutique, Du Pain et des Idées. His takes on staples like croissants and pain au chocolat are delicious; but you can also be bold and sample the fluorescent green pistachio *escargots,*or nab a big crusty block of the pains des amis, a fixture at some of the finest restaurants in the city.
PLAY
The future is now at La Gaîté Lyrique, a Belle Epoque Theater resurrected and re-made into the capital’s first digital cultural centre, following a multi-million Euro refurbishment. With no fewer than 120 multi-media performances per year, film projections, and fun interactive exhibitions by cutting edge artists from around the globe, this is more or less guaranteed to please, for total geeks and unrepentant luddites alike.
EAT
Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest market in Paris remains as vibrant as ever thanks to its dizzying throng of vendors selling fresh meat, cheese, fish, organic fruits and vegetables, and all manner of specialty foodstuffs. Make a pit stop at the terasses of one of this covered market's many restaurants and delis, doling out piping hot Moroccan delicacies, Italian antipasti, and tasty salads in a buzzy atmosphere that feeling more quai-side Mediterranean than prissy Parisian.
SHOP
Ofr Librairie is your one-stop shop for cutting edge art books and magazines. It also doubles as an agency and independent publishing house, regularly hosting exhibitions by young independent artists; and there’s a small edit of snazzy accessories and clothing by fashionable up-and-comers.
EAT
Such is the hype surrounding Chef Bertrand Grébaut's rustic-contemporary eatery Le Septime that even Beyoncé and Jay-Z checked it out during a recent Paris visit. But unless you’re a hip-hop mogul, too, you should definitely reserve well in advance. Once you're in, though, you'll get the famous €58 carte blanche menu; its minimalist dishes lean heavily on flavorful organic vegetables, and pair beautifully with the excellent value (and actually very good) natural wines on offer.
PLAY
In the unlikely event they ever decide to make a French version of the classic TV show Cheers, it’d likely be set at Aux Follies, located in the heart of trendy Belleville. It’s low-fi and easy to love, and customers are happy to squash together around the zinc to enjoy pints of beer or rustic reds by the glass. You somehow feel it wouldn’t take long for everyone to know your name.
STAY
Having raised its international profile via a splashy cameo in the final season of Sex in the City, Hotel Plaza Athénée:, the Grand Dame of l'avenue Montaigne, sought to further assert its position as one of Paris's top hotels in the face of aggressive competition with a top-to-tail renovation last year. The result? Revamped rooms that feel more like private apartments, as well as two restaurants and a bar (were you can now order drinks via iPad) which been given an almost futuristic feel by designers Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku. The overall ambience is opulence that's exciting and inviting, rather than snooty.
DAY 3: 7th arrondissement
Despite its slightly stuffy reputation, the ever-sophisticated 7th arrondissement has plenty going for it. Avoid the crowds gawking at the Eiffel Tower, and visit these spots instead.
EAT
Start your day right at Paris Seven with twin (and equally delectable) personalities: There’s a deli on the one side selling ready-to-eat hot meals, and a boulangerie-pâtisserie on the other. Bag yourself a buttery, crusty croissant for the morning, in addition to a macaron or slice of tarte tatin, bursting with big juicy pieces of fruit, for later.
EXPLORE
Les Berges des Seines has transformed approximately 1.5 miles of the Seine’s riverbank into a free, all-day playground for kids and adults. (It also has stellar views—clear those old pics from your phone and be prepared to Insta.) Choose your game – there’s outdoor ping-pong, checkers, and chess – or opt for yoga or boxing classes. Among the more out-there happenings is the giant hair salon that’ll be organized by Lady Gaga’s hairstylist this winter. Access the Berges from the Port de Solférino, Port des Invalides, and Port du Gros Caillou.
EAT
The mother-and-daughter team behind Les Deux Abeilles has created a menu that draws in crowds of sophisticates from Paris and beyond—understandable, since the café specializes in both savory dishes, like a lovely tomato tart, and homemade sweets. The excellent tarte tatin and meringue cake are particularly satisfying when chased with house-made ginger lemonade.
SHOP
Berenice is where fashionable Parisians stock up on those simple yet vital pieces that’ll give you the nonchalant elegance of a Charlotte Gainsbourg at prices that won’t break the bank—even if you throw in the odd slouchy hat, skinny driving coat or pair of biker boots to keep things interesting.
She won’t mind us saying so—in fact, she’ll take it as a total compliment: Marie-Anne Cantin: is the unrivalled French queen of cheese whose pungent products grace some of the chicest tables in town. Educational tasting events are held on a regular basis to initiate novices to the subtle universe of fromage.
EAT
When 32-year-old David Toutain decided to strike out on his own after working alongside venerable chefs such as Mark Veyrat, Alain Passard, and Andoni Luis Adruriz, it threw the French foodie world into a small frenzy of anticipation. And while the stark décor at his neo-bistro may be nothing much to write home about, the thoughtfully inventive dishes (like salsifis with white chocolate and a supreme of chicken with garlic cream and mint oil) operate like mini fireworks on your tastebuds.
PLAY
Once a guilty pleasure of the shhhh don’t tellvariety, karaoke has become very nearly cool in Paris—a status elevation spearheaded by chic clubs such as Bam Karaoke Box. Soothe your pre-performance nerves with cocktails like the Lady Gaga (vodka, lemon juice and cotton candy) then head to the karaoke booth to warble (or giggle) your heart out.
