Tumbao, Playa de Valdevaqueros, Tarifa, Cádiz
Tumbao, a cool spot without pretension and imbued with something of a “Californian-days-of summer” vibe, offers everything anyone might need on a beach, from good company to healthy juice and batidos (shakes), an affordable buffet (€11 a head), and good views of kite-surfers from a supine vantage point on the cushions. In late afternoon, there’s a beach barbecue and the post-swim crowd arrives in search of icy beer, watermelon mojitos and music (there’s nearly always a DJ, often live bands as well). Tarifa’s not short of great chiringuitos, but Tumbao is one not to miss.
N-340, 10km from Tarifa; on Facebook, open daily Easter to early Oct, midday-midnight
Sajorami beach, Zahora, Cádiz
For natives of Cádiz, no summer is complete without a day basking in the sandy low-tide pools at Zahora, followed by a drink and maybe some local tuna at Sajorami, where wooden tables and benches stand on a low bluff above a gorgeous beach. The bar and restaurant are part of a complex that includes great cabins, in an area of pretty holiday villas, sandy lanes and beach vendors. From Weds-Sun (until the end of August) there’s live music. Fans of dancing by the sea can head to neighbouring party beach El Pirata, and the excellent, ramshackle Good Karma chiringuito, and La Jaima Meccarola, now in its 30th year.
Pago de Zahora, Caños de Meca, sajoramibeach.com, open from around 9am-1.30am daily through high season (check website)
Vavá, Playa la Barrosa, Cádiz
There’s no swanky ostentation on Cádiz beaches, but the newly opened Vavá is adding a touch of va va voom in a laid-back, eco-friendly, discreetly luxurious way. It belongs to Hotel Valentin Sancti Petri just above it, but is accessible from the beach and open to all. Wooden, open-sided and planted squarely on the soft sand, it riffs on the chiringuito theme but adds Balinese beds shaded by billowing white curtains, a massage area, finger food, natural juices and music in tune with the dreamy environment.
Urbanización Novo Sancti Petri, Chiclana de la Frontera, open daily until mid-Oct (depending on weather), 10.30-1am
Santa Pura Club La Antilla, Islantilla, Huelva
Santa Pura is a cool Spanish interpretation of a holiday camp. Festive and super-cute with its marquee and sail shades, dining area, supervised kids’ club and eco-friendly mantra, it’s a great place to relax, although thanks to collaborations with local sports and theatre operators, there’s hardly time for that. With sailing, kite-surfing, yoga, DJ sets, stand-up comedy, open-air cinema and, three times a season, great concerts on offer, Santa Pura is fast becoming one of the top beach spots on Huelva’s Costa de la Luz.
Playa de la Antilla, Huelva, on Facebook, open Jun-Sept 1pm-midnight
La Bodeguiya, Las Negras, Almería
Cabo de Gata natural park has no end of perfect beaches and pretty white bar-restaurants. This isn’t one of them. It’s a tiny cave-like space, and the seating (a ledge and a few stools), service and choice of wine and tapas are all limited, but La Bodeguiya is special. The surprisingly boho den is the meeting place for summer nights, with good music and, sometimes, dancing. Nab the standing barrel by the water’s edge for the best drinks perch in town. There are good fish restaurants all around.
Calle Bahía de las Negras 21, open all year Weds-Sat 7pm-2am; Sun 7pm-midnight
Bar de Jo, Escullos, Almería
The sea isn’t visible from Barde Jo, but this open-air hangout, accessed from a footpath connecting beach and campsite at Escullos in Cabo de Gata, is a legendary port of call on the Almería coast, attracting bikers, rockers, curious tourists and celebrities from far and wide. It’s an encampment, an assembly of mismatched seating and curios (mannequin dressed as pirate, vintage cars), with excellent cocktails and a soundtrack of 1970s classics. Hard to find, but worth seeking out. Head for the glow of coloured lights, the soft thrum of motorbikes, and the sound of Lynyrd Skynyrd.
Camino de Cala Higuera, on Facebook, open most nights mid-June-Sept, 11pm-6am. Live music on Wednesdays (Jul-Aug), Saturdays in September
El Peñón de Sopelana, near Bilbao
Drop a pub on to silky sand, replace the punters with fit surfers, and bags of crisps with innovative pintxos (and great hamburgers) and you have an idea of this bar-cafe-restaurant on the Bay of Biscay. But nothing compares to the knockout views of the long Arrietara beach and headlands beyond headlands from the terraces. Northwest-facing, windswept and elemental, this impressive location is a top choice for bracing walks and major surf events. Beach and bar are much-loved by many in downtown Bilbao, just 40 minutes away by metro.
Atxabiribil 82, Bizkaia, elpenondesopelana.com, open all year Sun-Thurs midday-1am, Fri-Sat 12pm-2am
El Maravillas, Playa del Prat, Barcelona
As an antidote – or complement – to Barcelona’s many swanky, distinctly urban, high-design beach bars, there’s El Maravillas on a wild and natural beach, offering a short and simple menu during the day and cocktails, dinner and dancing at night. It’s a joyful place with super-friendly staff attracting a mixed crowd of wealthy uptown Barcelona couples, families, hipsters, Gypsies from El Prat, and dance academy students who come here on Fridays to salsa by the sea.
Passeig de la Platja, El Prat de Llobregat, on Facebook, Sun-Thurs 10am-midnight; Fri-Sat 10am-3am
Boia Nit, Bar Boia, Girona
Not the place to ask for a Cruzcampo, but the best place in Spain for a vodka or gin cocktail with a splash of plankton or pepper, plus a view of the sea. This cafe-bar is open year round for normal fare but, on summer nights, it becomes Boia Nit, the coctelería, where liquid exotica is produced by youthful, multi-award-winning mixologist Manel Vehí and his team. It seems modern with its designer lighting, but luminaries have gathered here since 1946 – Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, Kirk Douglas, John Cage and Gabriel García Márquez among them.
Paseo de Cadaques, 17, Cadaqués, boianit.com, Boia Nit open May-Sept, 7.30pm-2.30am; Bar Boia open June-Sept 8.30am-2.30am, Oct-May 9am-10pm
Chiringuito la Pelosa, Cala La Pelosa, Girona
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