Easy Upgrade Ways to kick this sumptuous season up a notch.
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A Composed Salad Is a Meal Unto ItselfBy JULIA MOSKIN
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What’s the difference between a salad and a composed salad? From the French “salade composée,” a composed salad is simply salad arranged on a plate rather than tossed in a bowl.
But for the American cook in summer, it is much more than that: a back-pocket lunch or dinner that can be endlessly reinvented and served to many people at any time. It shows off the intense, irresistible vegetables, herbs and fruits of the season — but can also have rich components like cheese, eggs, toasted nuts and smoked fish or meat. With a loaf of (preferably grilled) bread, it is a meal in itself.
Like the V.I.P. pass at a music festival that gets you a folding chair and access to a charging station, a composed salad provides a little extra organization and luxury, but still holds the wild spirit of summer.
That’s because it can contain almost anything the cook wants to arrange, roll, roast, poach, bake or grill, from thin shavings of fennel and whole kernels of local corn to dollops of ricotta and shards of country ham. Tossed together, the result would be sloppy and monotonous. A bit of order makes it satisfying and elegant.
A controlled riot is the goal, which can be achieved by choosing one or two elements from each category below. Lay them out on one vast platter (the prettier choice) or on individual plates (faster). Ingredients can be arranged in loose stripes or wedges, or be artfully distributed around the platter.
(Sprinkling everything with fresh herbs at the end is a good way to cover up any gaps in artfulness.) A composed salad is not tossed with its dressing; it lies down flat, and gets drizzled. Or you may toss just the vegetables with dressing, then bring on the other ingredients, swirling olive oil over all to make the dish shiny and golden. It is almost impossible to use too much olive oil for this purpose.
Resist any temptation to dice everything into bite-size pieces; you want to see clearly that right here is a pile of roasted baby zucchini, there a ball of milky fresh mozzarella, and just within reach, the wrinkled black olives and heirloom cherry tomatoes that are delicious with both. To serve, place the platter on the table with several sets of implements (wide spatulas are especially useful) so guests can lift out ingredients as desired.
Recipe: Foolproof Lemon-Garlic Mayonnaise
Recipe: Hazelnut-Chive Dressing
Recipe: Grilled Garlic Bread
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Something Leafymakes a fluffy bed for the other ingredients. Choose among sweet and bitter greens, or use a combination.
Escarole
Mesclun
Bibb or Boston lettuce
Spinach
Arugula
Watercress
Mâche
Soft herbs: basil, cilantro, mint, shiso, celery leaves
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Something Richmakes the salad feel like a satisfying meal.
Hard-boiled eggs (not too hard, cut in wedges)
Cheese: burrata, feta, mozzarella, goat cheese
Caramelized onions
Fried green tomatoes
Fried eggplant
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Raw Vegetableskeep the salad close to the ground, focusing attention on the best of summer produce.
Radishes
Sprouts
Avocados
Fennel
Bell peppers
Cucumbers
Shaved carrots
Shaved celery
Snap peas or snow peas
Mushrooms
Fresh corn kernels
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Cooked Vegetablescan be grilled, blanched, or roasted, and bring a fresh palette of flavors, colors, and textures. The goal is a variety of all.
Beets
Zucchini or yellow squash
Cauliflower or broccoli florets
Eggplant
Green or yellow beans
Carrots
Bell peppers
Edamame
Leeks
Scallions
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Something Tangywakes up the other flavors and keeps the palate primed for more.
Preserved lemon rind
Olives
Anchovies, white or traditional
Cornichons
Pickled sliced red onions
Capers (plain or fried) and caperberries
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Something Earthymakes the salad substantial and satisfying.
Beans: white, cranberry, cannellini, chickpeas
Potatoes
Sunchokes
Lentils
Grains: quinoa, farro, bulgur wheat, barley
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Something Sweet and Juicybrings welcome little bursts of flavor, and contrasts nicely with the savory elements.
Cantaloupe
Tomatoes
Peaches
Nectarines
Melons
Mangoes
Figs
Pomegranate seeds
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Something Meatyis optional, but a great opportunity to explore the world of cured meats, smoked fish, and other luxuries.
Prosciutto, jamón serrano or country ham (very thinly sliced)
Tuna, salmon or other meaty fish (grilled or canned)
Smoked trout, salmon, mackerel or whitefish
Shrimp or squid (poached, roasted or grilled)
Chicken (poached, roasted or grilled)
Saucisson sec, aged chorizo or salami (very thinly sliced)
Bacon or pancetta nuggets
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Something Crunchybrings a final spark of texture and salt.
Croutons
Coarse breadcrumbs
Pita crisps
Toasted nuts
Roasted chickpeas
Fried shallots or onions