Some 20 years after the end of the Yugoslav War, Croatia, one of the prettiest and wealthiest countries to emerge from the fighting, has become a prime tourism destination. And why not? The country has spectacular coastline and islands, tremendous sailing opportunities, storybook villages, historic cities, excellent seafood-driven cuisine and a baked-in hospitality.
Dubrovnik, with its UNESCO-designated medieval glory and deep Game of Thrones connection, tends to get all the glory. While Dubrovnik is dreamy, it’s a shame that visitors overlook this larger city up the coast. While Split still fills with tourists (though its harbor holds only two massive cruise ships, compared to the six that disgorge passengers every day in Dubrovnik), it has a big enough local population—roughly a quarter of a million—to feel like a living city, albeit one whose city center is also a UNESCO site, the gorgeous, atmospheric remains of a massive 4th-century palace.
“Split is an emerging destination. It’s really vibrant,” says Zeljka Mustra, the director of sales and marketing for the Split-based luxury private tour operator Calvados Club, which plans custom travel throughout the Adriatic. “It’s completely different from Dubrovnik. There’s so much to see and do if you live here.” And if you visit.
Like the rest of Croatia, Split can be intimidating to visitors unfamiliar with Slavic languages (that high school Latin or French will get you nowhere). My solution was to organize a tour of the city and its surroundings with Calvados Club, which was founded 15 years ago with the aim of showing things that aren’t in the guidebook but still giving guests time to relax and enjoy themselves so that they feel that they’re on a luxurious vacation.
Back when they started, Croatia had luxury hotels but not a lot of services (cars, drivers, boats and, most important, savvy guides) on the same level. Calvados Club hired its own, helping to build the higher-end infrastructure that now makes Croatia more appealing to the coddled traveler. Staff members stay at every hotel they might recommend, and they meet everyone guests might meet, from winemakers to skippers to curators.
Split is the kind of city where you don’t need a plan. Simply wandering the streets of the old town, sunbathing on the beach and having a meal on the waterfront are pleasures that don’t need to be premeditated. It’s also safe enough, Mustra says, that people often forget to lock their doors and it’s no big deal. But during a whirlwind tour (hosted by Calvados Club and the Park Hotel), a few things stood out.
The first inhabitant of Split was the Roman emperor, who began building his monumental palace around 293AD. But this palace isn’t a remote, walled-off royal enclave like Versailles. Rather, it has had a long history as a living town—a warren where some 2,000 people still live, work, dine, shop and drink.
The old city (within the palace walls) is chockablock with restaurants serving old-world fare. Bokeria, which debuted in 2014 and is not one of them. The Bokavsek family, which owns the restaurant, combined their name with the famous Boqueria market in Barcelona, from which they took inspiration. The menu, which draws heavily on local produce and seafood, is more Mediterranean than strictly Croatian, and the large room is simply designed yet warm and convivial.
Croatians haven’t had the easiest of histories, but they’ve been resilient through the rough times and are now fiercely proud of their country and their countrymen. Beloved sculptor Ivan Mestrovic (also beloved in the U.S., as he taught at Notre Dame and became as known for his generosity as for his talent) is a prime example. This museum of his work is worth a visit even for non-sculpture aficionados, as his former home is a lovely mansion on beautiful grounds with a striking sea view. Calvados Club can arrange a private VIP tour with a curator.
This restaurant by the marina has excellent views over the docked yachts, and its food is equally impressive, a bounty of beautiful flavors from the sea. (Note that Croatians are also very proud of their cuisine, and it can feel like they’re trying to kill you with pleasure. It may be wise not to plan on a fancy lunch and a fancy dinner on the same day.)
Sinj
This town, about a 30-minute drive up into the hills, is known for one centuries-old tradition. The Alka is an equestrian tournament in which the town’s men dress up in elaborate, antique costumes (that can weigh 40 pounds) and ride horses at a full gallop, then try to capture a small amulet on a long spear. A brand-new Alka museum does a great job explaining all this, with video, life-size dioramas and interactive exhibitions—and possibly a tour co-led by the winner of the 300th Sinj Alka and a visit to the stables.
Klis Fortress
Some of the best views of the region are to be had from this medieval fort, which was the setting for some rather impressive scenes in Game of Thrones. Calvados Club can arrange private archery lessons with teachers who trade their bows for swords and chop almonds off the overhead trees.
Home cooking
Outside the cities, Croatian culture is often untouched by time. That’s evident on a trip to a village like Gata, about an hour from the city, where at least one savvy family has figured out that it can hosts tourists for a traditional supper of soparnik, a staple made with Swiss chard, garlic, onions and wheat dough (somewhere between pizza and spanakopita) and homemade rakija, the local fruit brandy.
Since its origin in 1921, this classic hotel has been considered the most prestigious in the city, with its Art Deco details, handsome rooms and lush winter garden filled with palm trees. That’s even more true as of last year when it emerged from a €10 million renovation. It has an enviable location right above Bacvice beach and is just a ten-minute walk from the palace (making it just far enough to avoid the crowds that can fill the narrow ancient streets).
About two hours’ drive from Split (on the way to Dubrovnik, should you be combining) lies one of Croatia’s premier wine regions, one that also has some spectacular sea views over the Paljesac peninsula. Those are on full display at Rizman, where the great-grandchildren of the original winemaker resurrected the family business in 2006. They’re producing ecological-certified wines (similar to organic) that are well balanced and easy drinking. The by-appointment tastings can become indulgent lunches, with locally produced “snacks” like enormous briny oysters, minced mussels, zesty octopus salad and black cuttlefish risotto.
Getting there: There are no direct flights to Croatia from the U.S. A good option for getting to Split is Lufthansa, which has regular service from Munich and Frankfurt. The business class cabin on transatlantic flights fully flat-bed seats that are more than six feet long and restaurant-style dinner service.
