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New Orleans is a hazy fever dream of a city, with a history as winding and arabesque as the stretch of the Mississippi River Delta upon which it sits. The city was settled by the French in 1718, ceded to the Spanish, reverted back to French control, then was sold to a fledgling country called the United States in 1803. It has since served as a sanctuary to displaced Haitians, French-Canadians, and Vietnamese, as well as droves of artists, poets, and more. If you can handle the humidity, you’re welcome in this town.
At the heart of it all is the city’s architectural and historic center, the French Quarter. But anyone who has spent time visiting New Orleans can tell you that the French Quarter of today—choked with souvenir shops, dive bars, and rowdy tourists—is a far cry from the interesting, bohemian haven it was a century ago. That said, there are still two reasons you should go on a quick stroll through the Quarter: first, to try the iconic beignets at Café du Monde (but only after a night at the bar, so as to avoid the overwhelming daytime lines); and second, to shop for sunglasses at the beautiful Royal Street store of Krewe, runner-up for the 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize.
It’s not that you should avoid the neighborhood—it’s a landmarked district that everyone should see. It’s just that New Orleans, as has happened so many times during its history, is in the midst of a cultural transformation, and everywhere but the French Quarter is where you will find the latest and greatest in exciting restaurants, shopping, and things to see. So set your sights on Tremé, the Marigny, Mid-City, Garden District, Audubon Park, and the Warehouse District . . . and get ready to fall in love with the Big Easy, where creativity lurks around every corner and Southern charm hangs on the air like a warm breeze.
What to DoAlthough New Orleans is known for Mardi Gras, “festival season” is actually something that stretches for months before and months after Fat Tuesday—in fact, there seems to always be something going on in New Orleans. Things tend to slow down during the oppressively hot months of July and August, but even then you’re sure to find a crawfish boil, parade, or “second line” funeral or wedding celebration on any given street. A full list of goings-on is available online. We recommend avoiding the tourist crowds and jacked-up hotel prices by visiting during one of the lesser-known, more authentic local festivals such as the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience, Bayou Country Superfest, or Greek Fest.
Art world insiders have had their eye on New Orleans for a while, and the Warehouse District’s Contemporary Arts Center is largely responsible for the city’s renewed rise to cultural capital status. The CAC’s talented head curator, and former New Yorker, Andrea Andersson, is the brains behind two shows currently on view (one on Cecilia Vicuña and the other on Senga Nengudi) that are must-sees for anyone in town. After a trip to the CAC, spend some time wandering through the galleries on nearby Julia Street, where the impossibly chic Mallory Page creates emotional, colorful works. Later on, pop on over to Where Y’Art, an intriguing gallery space in the Marigny that emphasizes local artists at accessible price points.
The city also lends itself to excellent cycling. Rent a bike from Buzz Nola downtown then drive up the Lafitte Greenway or Esplanade Avenue through Tremé and Mid-City. Stop at Church Alley Coffee Bar for a break and browse the socially conscious offerings at Goods That Matter before riding over to City Park, the largest public park in the city.
If you prefer a more relaxed approach to experiencing the city, you’ll find that the beauty of New Orleans’s oppressive heat and humidity is that it becomes totally acceptable to lounge around all afternoon. Stop by Bacchanal in Bywater where you can buy wines by the bottle and enjoy them in a garden setting with live music. If the line is too long, try The Country Club a few blocks away. Although this restaurant and bar changed their “clothing optional” pool policy in 2014, the place still retains its funky charm—we hear it’s a favorite hangout of Solange Knowles.
Be sure to pace yourself during the day, because you would be remiss to visit the birthplace of jazz and not indulge yourself in some nightlife. The city overflows with shows and performances nearly every night of the week, but locals tend to find themselves flocking to Three Muses, The Spotted Cat Music Club, and Hi-Ho Lounge when DJ Soul Sister spins. There are so many choices here that selecting one can feel overwhelming—so your best bet will be to turn on the iconic 90.7 FM and listen for what shows are going to be the best that night.
Where to EatCompère LapinChef Nina Compton’s curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi firmly landed Compère Lapin among the city’s most sought-after and delectable restaurants. She combines her Caribbean roots with the culinary heritage of New Orleans for a menu that’s adventurous, unexpected, playful, and, above all, delicious.
Commander’s PalaceTime stands still at this monolithic New Orleans icon. It’s pretty normal for the entire dining room to be filled with balloons for the weekend’s jazz brunch. The party continues on weekdays, too, with the infamous 25-cent martini lunch (don’t forget to clear your afternoon schedule beforehand). There’s a sizable menu of classic Southern fare, but make sure your meal starts with turtle soup and ends with strawberry shortcake.
PêcheThis James Beard Award–winning restaurant is consistently a top contender for the best restaurant in town, with an exciting approach to seafood that preserves local cooking techniques. The smothered catfish and Louisiana shrimp roll are outstanding.
SeaworthyA New Orleans sister restaurant to the New York sensation Grand Banks, Seaworthy cooks up some of the freshest, tastiest seafood in town and has an exceptional wine list to boot. Don’t leave town without trying the clove glazed Berkshire pork belly, blue crab toast with manchego cheese, or butter-poached black drum with red chili. And make sure to start your meal with some briny, unbelievably jumbo-size Murder Point oysters from Grand Bay, Alabama.
VesselEating at Vessel in the Mid-City neighborhood is something of a religious experience, and not because it’s set in a former church—the small plates and family-style offerings are inventive yet satisfying. Try the black pepper–infused strawberry salad, Creole mussels, or cast-iron octopus with black-eyed peas.
N7Perhaps the strongest example of New Orleans’s revitalized food scene, this “can-to-table” restaurant serves up exquisite preserved foods you’ll have a hard time finding anywhere else on this side of the Atlantic, like lobster rillettes from France or Portuguese spicy-ragout calamari. There’s no website or phone number to take reservations, which only adds to the restaurant’s “you just have to know” cool factor.
Parkway TavernA no-frills diner serving up the best po’boys in town. Stirling Barrett, founder of Krewe, offered this pro tip for all visitors to the Big Easy: “Parkway isn’t in the coolest neighborhood, necessarily, but it is on the way to the airport. So stop at Parkway, get a po’boy to go, and that way you’re nice and carbo-loaded for the flight home.”
Where to StayThe Old No. 77 Hotel & ChandleryThe Old No. 77 was Nola’s “cool hotel” long before the Ace came to town. Its clean, mid-century-inflected design is a reflection of the contemporary South, but its hospitality and attention to detail are absolutely timeless. The building is conveniently located off Canal Street, making it ideally situated to get to any part of town in mere minutes. Make sure to stay in one of the Artist Loft Suites—oversize rooms tastefully outfitted with works from local painters.
The Ace HotelThe revitalization of the Warehouse District is owed in no small part to the Ace, which opened in late 2015. While it might feel a bit too familiar, especially for New Yorkers, there is a reason that Ace Hotels have become such a popular brand: the modern post-industrial design, the undeniable cool factor of everyone passing through, and there’s even a Stumptown Coffee on-site.
The PontchartrainIconic, gorgeous, hospitable New Orleans at its finest. Nestled in the picturesque Garden District since it opened in the 1940s, this hotel has hosted the likes of Frank Sinatra, Rita Hayworth, Gerald Ford, and George H. Bush; and, while staying in one of the suites here, Tennessee Williams wrote A Streetcar Named Desire. Restored to its former glory by a multimillion-dollar renovation, this hotel now features comfortable rooms, a prime location on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line, and delectable dining options from local celebrity chef John Besh.