I was at a spot down close to SI yesterday and caught a few nice waves between 2-4.  Towards the end of my session I was really tired and having trouble getting into waves.  I moved inside a little and did OK getting on the shoulder, but when I tried to take off on the peak I got thrashed...hard.  Other than paddling harder, does anyone have any advice for making a wave that goes critical pretty quick?  My spanking was one of those scary moments where I was in freefall and my board was twisting below me and I landed on my board, fins down thank God.   I really hate ending a session like that.

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Jesus invented surfing...
Matthew 14:22-33

www.facebook.com/churchonthebeach

Absolute commitment and no hesitation on your part. I know it sounds a little cliche, but it is the truth. If you hesitate you are going to get thrashed every time in that situation.

 

Paddle a few extra paddles to get a little bit more into the wave... So you take off more towards the middle of the wave and not the top.

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Satellite Beach

"...Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true. "

for me it depends on whether you're taking off backside or frontside.  backside, grab the rail b/c you can either go for a cover up if the wave is getting that critical or you'll have the extra power of a grab rail in an initial bottom turn.  I dunno, it may look rank but it sure beats landing on your board, fins up next time or missing the wave and having every shoulder hopper drop in on you b/c they think you cant make the drop.

As far as front side, commitment and crouch like you're going to get barreled, its an easy enough transition to just stand up straight if the wave doesn't pitch out. 

I was surfing some "critical" 3-4 shorebreak at jup inlet two days ago and the serious backwash was making takeoffs that just throw you off your board or pitch you over the falls. 

Dig your tail in hard, bounce out, and paddle your ass off. Make sure that your hands (when standing up) or anything else for that matter don't drag in the water. If frontside, stand up, hook your arm in the wave and get shacked

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Low tech gallery

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No your problem was that you took off on a close out... 

It's about positioning / wave feature just as much as paddle technique... Some waves you just will not... and cannot... make... For the "floor" drops out and then heave hoe, into the pit you go...


Selection...


my answer

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neeeeaaapp

But if you are on a real thumper, position and then yeah... Balls to the walls applies... 


Good advice to increase surfing:

"read the waves" ... Don't stare at your feet, stare down the line and project yourself to your pre calculated destination...


On a wave appropriate to ride you won't get drilled like you explained though... That's always due to the trough of the wave being lower than the water level! (Scary)  

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neeeeaaapp

All part of the experience. Just keep charging and you'll figure it out.

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Still stoked.

at least the fins were down. That happened to me earlier this summer but I landed on my ass on top of my fin. Had a real pretty bruise line across my butt. And I was down in the south beaches area too. That area is known for close outs and killer shore pound on a good meaty swell.

If your tired and moving slower than normal, take that into account with your wave selection.

Are you saying have my tail digging in while I'm paddling into the wave?  The more tired I get the more I move my weight to the front of the board to help get my momentum forward.  In general I favor leaning more forward (which feels like I'm paddling faster rather than being back too far).  I wonder if that is contributing to the problem?  

All the other feedback is great!  Keep em coming.  It's been about a month or two since I transitioned to a shortboard.  My mini-longboard seemed like I could drop into anything.  So I'm learning trial by fire on a shortboard.  I appreciate the input b/c I'm still in that early learning curve.  Thanks.

Today celebrates one year that I've been in FL and I'm more stoked than ever to be here. I didn't start surfing right away but man I'm glad I finally did.  Best thing ever!

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Jesus invented surfing...
Matthew 14:22-33

www.facebook.com/churchonthebeach

nose rocker also plays a large role. i brought my FFF yesterday and immediately regretted it, NSB was pumping and i was having trouble with the steep drops

Angle your takeoff and keep your head/chin down as your paddling into it.

If you hesitate, its already over. 

If this is you Gsus, you're up too far on the board and even going the wrong direction.

Arch your back, dig hard, paddle for the wave well before it breaks, get to your feet QUICK and make sure they're in the right place.

This can really make a difference on the closeout/shorepound days.

The first wave I took in the shorebreak (on Monday) was this perfect mini-wedge, looked like it was gonna set up for a little cover, and a nice takeoff. Halfway into the wave, I see the bottom drop out, and feel the push. Forgot how quickly the inside likes to jump from 'nice lump' to 'death pit'.

Instead of clawing out the back, I jumped right over the falls to beat the board to the surface, smash into the sand and then take another toss while in the heart of it. Took me a good 3-4 minutes to make it back out through the SHOREPOUND. Needless to say I was humbled (but somehow insanely stoked that it was breaking that hard).

Anyhow, I spent the rest of the sesh really angling some of the takeoffs- sometimes hopping up sideways and then dealing with it (being able to get down the line an extra foot or two before it started to churn). Made a big difference, and opened up some great lines.

if its big always take an extra few strokes over what you normally would.  Also the others are spot on about making the drop mentally before you even stand up.  I always look down the line and dont think about it too much.  If you are tired dig the tail deep and let it give you the initial push before you paddle.

one more thing...if you are too tired to paddle for a wave you may want to wait for the next set.  I have learned to block pain out when surfing and havent experienced this in many years.  its just something you learn about your body over time.

 

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Always pull in....the consequences will be much greater and will last a lifetime if you always take the safest line.

Being in good shape for me makes a lot of diff., as I get fatter, I lose a lot of speed. also watch vids of guys like AI, Kelly, Dorian, or the old vids of Dane Keoloha. Those guys do a lot of under the lip take offs vs paddling from the top of the lip and ending up above the crease, they end up below the crease. Problem is in Florida you get little practice cause the only hollow wave is by a jetty w/100 people and setting up under the lip means sitting in the middle of an agro group trying to out position each other. It is rare to see hollow waves at every spot. Which gives you a chance at uncrowded barrels. And that Shark Pit to Coconut Pt and all in between area or nearby can either be magic knee deep sand bars or dry sand skimboard smashers straight onto the shore.

if your board floats you right, position near the peakif not crowded, swell comes you forward lean into it at a slight angle take 2 good strokes & get up quick,........down the line you go right in the power zone. easy sneezy...go fot it!

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crazy like a fox!
ha ha > Vote for Rewind Cain, he'll get it right....eventually.