36 Hours In... Girona

For a colourful view of the city, visit during its spring festival, the Temps de Flors, which runs from May 11 to 19. The medieval centre will be decked in glorious floral patterns, and there is a packed schedule of gastronomic and cultural events running together.

Girona is often viewed as Barcelona in miniature

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Getting there

Girona-Costa Brava airport is served by Ryanair (ryanair.com) from April to October, and Thomson Airways (thomson.co.uk) during the summer. Consider the train, too. The high-speed AVE train from Madrid will connect to the French TGV network this summer, cutting journey times from London to Girona to nine hours. Fares start at £193 return, via Rail Europe (0844 848 4078; raileurope.co.uk).

Where to stay

Special treat: The four-star Hotel Nord 1901 (1) (Carrer Nord 7; 0034 972 411522; www.nord1901.com) has a great location and a tranquil back garden with outdoor pool. A renovated 18th-century building, its 18 rooms and apartments are tricked out in sophisticated modern style. Doubles from 100 euros including breakfast.

Mid-range: Casa Cundaro (2) (Pujada de Catedral 7; 0034 972 223583; www.casacundaro.com) is a stone house in the medieval Jewish quarter (the Call). The former merchant’s residence, which appeared in the film ‘The Perfume’, houses 11 atmospheric rooms and apartments. Ask the proprietor to show you the mysterious catacombs underneath. From 80 euros per night, without breakfast.

On a budget: In a prime shopping street, the Hotel Peninsular (3) (Carrer Nou 3; 0034 972 203800; www.novarahotels.com) is a cheerful three-star, 48-room hotel that has just had a refit. Double rooms from 65 euros, without breakfast.

On arrival

8pm
Stop on a foot bridge across the River Onyar to take in the famous view of the painted houses hanging over its waters. The walled medieval quarter (the Barri Vell) runs uphill from the eastern bank; the ‘newer’ (18th-century) shopping district lies on the western. Head for the Placa del Vi. 

From this 12-century square, turn north up the Rambla de Libertat, checking at the tourist office for events and riverside markets during your stay. Get lost in the warren of tenements, a mixture of medieval and Romanesque, as well as Moderniste (Catalan Art Nouveau) architecture.

Girona's airport acts as a gateway to the Costa Brava

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9.30pm
A Moderniste doorway on some picturesque ivy-bedecked steps beckons you into the Cafe le Bistrot (4) (Pujada Sant Domenec 4, 0034 972 218803). A Girona institution, this inexpensive, bohemian eatery is popular with all types who rub along over dishes from its eccentric menu of salads (orange and onion; lentil and anchovy) and embotits (Catalan cured meats).

11pm
If you’re in the mood, head a few doors up from Le Bistrot to the Lola Cafe (Carrer de la Forca 7), a small dancing bar that puts on live rumba. 

First Day

9am
Artusi, just off the Rambla (Place de les Castanyes 6) does wonderful embotits, pastries and coffee for breakfast. Then walk up Forca until you see the 91 stone steps ascending to Girona cathedral (5) (seven euros, free on sunday; www.catedraldegirona.org). You are standing on the Via Augusta, the Roman road that crosses Iberia, which brought Moorish conquerers from the south (banished in the 11th century) and French from the north (who besieged Girona in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries).

The cathedral has a Romanesque tower and cloister, a Gothic nave and a Baroque facade. Be sure to see the 11th-century Tapestry of the Creation. In the cathedral square, the grand episcopal palace is now home to the Art Museum (6) housing historical and modern Catalan works (closed mondays, two euros, www.museuart.com). Students from the nearby Girona University give the area a distinguished air. 

12pm
Return downhill to the Museum of Jewish History (7) (Carrer de la Forca 8; four euros; www.girona.cat/call). Artefacts tell the story of the community that lived in the cramped alleys of the Call for centuries until Jews were expelled in 1492 (Spain’s government recently decided to offer passports to any of their descendants who wish to return). The museum also conducts research and ‘study journeys’ for visitors.

Girona's Jewish quarters

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1pm
Walk south on Carrer dels Ciutadanes, past the CaixaForum art space. Now for lunch. Two eateries in town currently boast Michelin stars: El Celler de Can Roca (three) and Massana (one). Can Roca, owned by the Roca brothers Joan, Josep and Jordi, is rated second-best in the whole world [update: in April 2013, the restaurant was voted number one in the world]. The locals, however, love Divinum (8) (Carrer Albereda 7; 0034 872 080218) whose directors studied under Joan. The creative Catalan cuisine is served with an exhaustive range of local wines. The lunch-time tasting menu of three courses, bread and wine is fantastic value at 30 euros.

3pm
Time to walk off all that food. A short way from Divinum, climb up to the start of the walk along the restored city walls, which runs for about half a mile (a shorter section lies to the north). High above the city, you have lovely views of landmarks (and residents’ gardens), with the Pyrenees shimmering in the distance. Descend behind the cathedral and walk uphill to the secluded Torre de Gironella, a grassy hill-top fort. You could nip to the cathedral square, but prettier is the landscaped path down the wooded slopes lying outside the walls, which brings you out at the Arab Baths (9).

5pm
The domed bath complex (Carrer Ferran el Catolic, two euros; www.banys.arabs.org) was built in 1194 to an older Arab design. Prior to 1929, it was part of a convent: it’s nice to think of the nuns having the ancient chambers to themselves. Cross the pretty Galligants stream to see the 10th-century monastery of Sant Pere, which houses the Archeology Museum; and the 12th-century chapel of Sant Nicolau, now a modern art gallery.

The famous view of the painted houses from a foot bridge across the River Onyar

7pm
Walking back into the old quarter, you pass Context, a bookshop and restaurant which hosts literary events and live-music dinners (Pou Rodo 21, www.cafecontext.com). Cross the Onyar to Carrer Santa Clara and browse the plush outlets of Catalan fashion designers such as Castaner for espardenya (espadrille) shoes and David Valls. Time to freshen up at the hotel.

9.30pm
Return to the north of the Barri Vell for dinner at Mimolet (10) (Pou Rodo 12, 0034 972 202124), a smart restaurant serving seasonal cuisine such as Girona roast beef with artichokes, fish and rice dishes. (Lunch menus from 15 euros.) From here it’s a short skip to the collonaded Placa Independencia, lined with bars and restaurants, for a nightcap (the square’s name refers to independence from France, not Catalan secession!).

Day two

10am
The award-winning Cinema Museum (11) (Carrer Sequia 1; five euros; www.museudelcinema.cat) has plenty to entertain children and adults. Opposite there are toy and magic shops. Afterwards, join the local families lunching at the bustling Casa Marieta (12) (Placa Independencia 5, 0034 972 201016; booking advised). Chicken with escamarlanes and duck with pears are among the local specialities. 

Checklist

After paying to get into one of Girona’s big five museums, pick up an M5 card, which gives you half-price entry to the others.

Shops tend to close for lunch between 2pm and 5pm, and open later until at least 9pm. All shops and some museums are closed on Sundays.

More information can be found at en.costabrava.org

Read our full expert guides to Barcelona and Madrid at telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations