In Chef’s Choice, the Naperville Sun asks local chefs to share their culinary background and experiences and to talk about a featured dish found on their menu.
This week, we speak with Angel Salazar, 47, executive chef at Sullivan’s Steakhouse in Naperville, who started cooking nearly 30 years ago after moving here from Mexico City. He started at Connie’s Pizza in Naperville and then moved to
Outback Steakhouse
, Cantina del Rio and Longhorn Steakhouse before joining the Sullivan team.
Question: It sounds like most of your career has been spent grilling steak.
Salazar: Yes, I’ve been at a lot of those places, and I know quite a bit about steak.
Question: What’s challenge to making a great steak? Some would argue you season it, put it on the fire and don’t overcook it.
Salazar: A steak anywhere is a steak, but the temperature is the challenge. You can make a medium steak, but people see that in different ways – that’s the challenge.
Question: If you were to list the components of making a great steak, other than the quality of the meat, what would you say?
Salazar: Basically, the seasoning. Salt and pepper, and everything else is about having a different flavor. Seasonings at restaurants come in different ways. Sometimes they come in a package, and sometimes they are made in house.
Question: Do you like those restaurants that offer certain sauces or a mushroom or Cajun crust or is that just covering up the meat?
Salazar: For me, it’s adding something extra (that’s not necessary). It’s like tequila. You can mix it and make a margarita, but good tequila, you gotta drink it straight. It’s the same for steak. You gotta eat it plain with nothing on top.
Question: What food from Mexico City do you miss the most that you don’t get to eat any more?
Salazar: There is a food we call “pambazos,” which is kind of like a sandwich with potatoes and chorizo and a red sauce that you cover with a grilled bun.
Question: It almost sounds like an American barbecue sandwich or a sloppy joe with potatoes.
Salazar: Yes, it’s something like that but it’s much better. You can still find it at some places.
Question: You mentioned you got into cooking when your mother taught you how to make scrambled eggs. Why did it become your passion?
Salazar: You know what? I tried different things and a few years ago, I changed careers. I started driving and I had a commercial driver’s license and tried doing that. I drove big trucks. It lasted eight months. It was a little bit dangerous and I didn’t feel comfortable and missed the restaurant business.
Question: What’s the most challenging thing you’ve had to learn to cook?
Salazar: I don’t think there is anything, but every time you make a recipe, you have to make it right. In this business, you have to follow the steps and do things the right way. The biggest challenge is dealing with different employees and having to approach every person individually.
Question: Complete this sentence: the thing that gets me fired up in the morning is…?
Salazar: Coming to work. This is where it really happens. I have great people here now and I really enjoy my job, and I’m passionate about what I do.
Question: Other than preparing meats, what else do you like to make after that?
Salazar: I’d say vegetables as a grilled side dish, like asparagus or Brussels sprouts. Those two are really good.
Question: Do you enjoy cooking at home?
Salazar: Yes, I try to cook at home on my days off and when there is nice weather. I try to play with food and try different spices. I play around with steak and try other things.
Question: I have a friend who grew up in Tuscany. The family was poor and he had to eat a lot of polenta. To this day, he doesn’t like it because it reminds him of that poverty. Was there anything you grew up with like that?
Salazar: For me, honestly, I’m not very picky with the food. I try everything and I never say I got enough of whatever as a kid. You just have to know when you’re full or you’re going to hate that food.
Question: When you go out, what do you like to order?
Salazar: I like Parmesan chicken. I love pasta too.
Question: The steak you’ve made here today is huge. What is this called?
Salazar: It’s one of our signature dishes. It’s the long bone steak. It’s a rib eye with the whole rib bone and it’s one of my favorites. The bone-in gives flavor and it’s a little fatty. If you’re coming to a steak house, this is my personal favorite to have. It’s simply seasoned with salt and pepper and it’s perfect.
Question: What do you like to serve it with?
Salazar: We are featuring our Brussels sprouts made with bacon, grilled onion, lime and a splash of bourbon, and the market salad with mixed greens, radishes, tomatoes, shaved cheese and shallot vinaigrette.
David Sharos is a freelance reporter for the Naperville Sun.
