The gate to Emmilou in Surry Hills is closed. Inside, I am seated on the terrace with Chef and Owner Chris Cranswick-Smith. And I have him all to myself. He has kindly granted me his time for the first interview and chef profile to be featured on Gourmantic.
I have met Chris on previous occasions and when I learnt he had a passion centred on travel, France, food and languages โ elements that make up the core of Gourmantic – I was intrigued to learn about the man behind the chef, the childhood influences that propelled him towards an international career in food that ultimately took him to France, Spain and the luxury yachts of the Mediterranean.
Itโs a cool winter afternoon and under the warmth of the outdoor heaters, we ease into the interview. I discover a passionate and focussed man, eloquent and natural in his responses. Heโs confident and charming, occasionally punctuating my probing questions with the odd look and chuckle.
Corinne: Tell me a little about yourself, your family and where you grew up.
Chris Cranswick-Smith: I grew up in the Northern Beaches, in Narrabeen. Iโm proud of being a Northern Beaches boy. I was born in Liverpool in the UK but moved here when I was six months old. Got the passport, missed the accent. I was a beachy sort of kid.
I have two brothers. A lot of people pick that Iโm the middle child, I donโt know whyโฆ [laughs] Poor mum! I was quite impressionable about the experiences I saw. Like watching my dad speak French overseas was the coolest thing in the world. I thought, โI wanted to do thatโ so I went out and did it.
C: How did you come to learn French?
CCS: I was lucky enough to be brought up understanding a certain amount of it. My parents used to read French books to me when I was younger, so I developed an ear for it. In year 6, I was at private school which I hated, I studied a year of French, half a year of German and Japanese because my dad was in business and I thought it was useful. I didnโt do much with it but my brother was studying 3 unit Japanese so I crash studied with him and did another year but wishing I had done French. We planned a family holiday to France at the end of Year 7 so I quit Japanese, studied a lot and mum helped me for the most part. At the end of year 8, I left to go to a public school and studied French by correspondence.
C: What other languages do you speak?
CCS: Spanish and a good basic level of Italian. I was based on a yacht in Italy for about 8 months on and off, the first 4 months of which was in a small town in the east of Italy called Ancona. In that time my Italian was very proficient, however upon returning to Spain I found hard to wrap my mouth around the quickly Spanish words after-a-speaking-a-the much-a-slower-Italiano for so long… so I decided not to pursue Italian much further as I required my Spanish for future work in kitchens.
C: You grew up with parents who spoke French and you travelled frequently to France and Europe. What influences did those experiences have on you as a child?
CCS: They helped to direct where I wanted to go, which was to definitely do a job that would allow me to travel, to definitely work in France and most likely cook at that point. And a big part of it was staying in hotels like Club Med on ski holidays and meeting foreigners. They encourage you to interact and mingle with people from around the world and I thought, โI want to do thisโ.
C: Was there a defining moment when you decided to be a chef?
CCS: I started cooking when I was 7. I was always nurtured into going into food. My mum was super enthusiastic about helping us to pursue any dreams we had, no matter what we wanted to do and dad always taught us that if we were going to do something that we should do it properly.
C: They sound like supportive parents.
CCS: Incredible. Between my mumโs support and dadโs general business acumen, itโs a huge reason I do what I do now.
C: What did you cook as child?
CCS: Pancakes. I was staying at a mateโs place on Mothers Day – Iโm not sure what I was doing there – his dad got up and made pancakes, and being young and impressionable, I wanted to do that. Mum used to buy me kidsโ cookbooks and I used to cook every weekend. I made Bรปche de Noรซl every Christmas for 7 years, cakes and simple kiddie stuff.
C: Did you always think youโd go into cooking?
CCS: I was always well aware cooking would be an option with mumโs friends saying, โChris would open a restaurant one dayโ. But it was when I went to public school, at 13-14 that my mind opened to doing a trade and not going to university. I did hospitality, ceramics, food tech and hands on subjects which helped to nurture the ambition a little bit.
Then in year 11, I took up physics and chemistry. I was torn between becoming a vet or hospitality. If I left school to do an apprenticeship, Iโd move to France by the time Iโm 20. If I became a vet, it would take longer. I wanted to travel and get on with it. I guess Iโve always been in a big rush all my life.
C: Where did you do your apprenticeship?
CCS: In Sydney. The first year at International Hotel School where they run through the theory a lot quicker. I smashed through that and got accredited 6 months in my apprenticeship. This meant I went into my second year working 5 days a week instead of the usual 4. I went to Jonahโs at Whale Beach for my second year then Aria for my third and fourth year.
C: Then you left Sydney?
CCS: Straight away. I went to Canada for a 2 months holiday then 6 weeks at home and bought a one-way ticket to France.
C: Did you go to Paris?
CCS: No, I stayed in Biarritz, where the majority of my food is inspired from, a) because it was a cool surfie town, b) for general culinary influences. Iโve been to Paris many times and thought it was an intense city and would take a long time to get to know it. I wanted to go to a place where I enjoyed every aspect of being there. Iโve always been focussed on good work-life balance.
Working on luxury yachts in the Mediterranean
C: Youโve worked at Cafรฉ de Paris in Biarritz, The Square in London’s Mayfair and La Broche in Madrid, and in between youโve had stints on luxury yachts for the Prince of Bahrain and CEO of Citigroup. Tell me about that.
CCS: I discovered the industry when I went from Biarritz to Nice for a bit of a holiday and saw the massive yachts there and in Monaco and Antibes.
I made it my focus to spend time in the industry and it was an incredible experience. You work really hard in a very confined space and live with people you work with.
We went all over the Mediterranean, and it was my job to get off at all sorts of places, stock up the boat, go into little markets, which brought the aspects of cooking back to basics.
C: What were some of the challenges of working on luxury yachts?
CCS: Having to cook for a crew of 14, with guys of varying ages and demographics doing physical work in sun and girls working inside and getting little exercise and having to come up with food to cater for everyone. We did one stint for 3 months straight.
C: Did you have much creativity in what you could cook?
CCS: It was circumstantial depending on the owners. Some gave full control. Others gave a brief, and not always the right one which made it a challenge at times.
C: What made you come back to Sydney?
CCS: I was ready. I spent time away because I had so many things I had to get out of my system. I was always looking for the next big thing. In the end, I was planning my next move before I even made it.
I worked in San Sebastian and on yachts for the Prince of Bahrain which was based in the south of France. It was super intense because youโre around royalty. The boat was going back to Bahrain, and the timing worked out to work for a mate chef at the Grand National Hotel so I had something to come home to. I was at a point where I enjoyed it so much that I wanted to go home on such a high.
C: Then you started Emmilou in 2007
CCS: I came home in March 2007. By August, I had an itchy feeling that was all too familiar, but for the first time it wasnโt inspiring me to go overseas. I felt I needed more, and I started pursuing Emmilou. I finally felt settled and could focus my energies on it.
C: Whatโs the inspiration behind the name?
CCS: Emmilou is a mix of names I came across when I was in Europe, mainly in Biarritz and San Sebastian, and a few important people during my time there. There may have been a girlfriend called Emily, but thatโs not the point. I came up with the name when I was living in France. I have memories of the Pyrenees and the surf, half an hour bus rides to Spain with a change of culture and languages. Itโs a reminder of my time there and my experiences.
C: So itโs not a girl who broke your heartโฆ
CCS: No. Iโd always thought during my apprenticeship that girlsโ names would be cool to use for restaurants. Theyโre fun and sexy, people can relate to them. I played around with a few names. Emmilou became a reminder of what I did there and ultimately an inspiration for where I wanted to go.
C: Emmilou is known as the kind of place you take someone you want to impress. Itโs hip, vibrant, sexy. Was that always your vision or did it evolve into it?
CCS: Not always a vision. Itโs a reflection of who I am.
C: Hip, vibrant, sexy?
CCS: Yep. Many chefs do the fine dining restaurants scene but itโs not the sort of place I want to go to on a regular basis, for example, when going on a date. I did a lot of dating over the last couple of years Iโve been here, though I do now have a serious girlfriend for the first time in a long time. [chuckles quietly] The first line in my business plan was โEmmilou will be the type of place that I want to go toโ.
C:You also launched your catering business, Private Chef Solutions in June 2010.
CCS: I registered the business name while I was at Grand National. When I was working on the yachts, I felt I was working like a caterer. I researched it and found a huge gap in market at the time. Now, with renewed interest in food due to the Masterchef generation, a lot of premium restaurants have also seen the gap in market and are catering successfully.
C: Does it bring much business?
CCS: Business has come almost directly from Emmilou customers. People have engaged us repeatedly. They know and love the Emmilou product and want to bring it to their premises.
His iPhone rings with Gorillazโ Feel Good Inc ringtone. He quickly silences it.
C: Youโre active in various domains. Youโre Executive Chef at Emmilou, you appear on television shows, such as Ready Steady Cook and The Circle on Ten. Youโve recently featured in TV commercials for Vegeta. How did the opportunity come about to step into television?
CCS: One of the producers of Ready Steady Cook had dinner here one night with a mutual friend. Introductions were made and I was invited to come along to the following season.
C: Do you enjoy it?
CCS: Yeah, I do. For the audition, the ingredients were unexciting. They didnโt really care what you cooked, they wanted to see a bit of personality so I thought letโs have fun with this. I walked out thinking if I didnโt get it, Iโve learnt something for next time. Then they called me up saying they loved what I did, and to come and do four shows next week.
There were warm ups or practices before shooting live recording. Sure I looked a bit nervous, but I went there and did it and it was a lot of fun. But I’m not on Ready Steady Cook this year due to too many other commitments.
C: You do consulting work as well?
CCS: Yes, I set up the menu for the Passage, a small bar in Darlinghurst.
C: And youโve also done a bit of modelling.
CCS: [looks puzzled] I havenโt done modelling. [pause] I have an agent who got me to do some shots in suits and skinny ties. I never liked them. I felt uncomfortable doing that, itโs not who I am. So we had them done again in my chef and own clothes. If you feel uncomfortable in front of the camera itโs going to show.
[pause] Ahโฆ yes. I did a photo shoot on a boat for ‘Top Rising Stars of Industry’ for Polo DeโMarco online magazine. They chose 5 up and coming people in different industries with model Didier Cohen, Lauren Andon. It was flattering to be picked.
C: Youโve recently done a photo shoot for Cosmopolitan magazine (not out yet) as one of the young sexy chefs.
CCS: [grins] Me standing there in an apron.
C: Just an apron?
CCS: [laughs] I had underwear on. The art director was after a hot guy shoot. I said, โIโm a chef not a model, what do you want me to do?โ In the end, I got to set it up the way I wanted, with a set of knivesโฆ
C: Can you tell me more?
CCS: There are six of us in it. With Masterchef being massive, I thought it was a cool idea to bring a bit of sexiness to some venues. I was flattered they asked me but they could have done a bit better if they wanted good looking chefs.
C: Do you think chefs are the new models and magazine centrefolds?
CCS: Haha. No.
C: Until recently, your twitter profile mentioned a rating for frequent nudity, and earlier this year, you launched a cheeky menu with a warning about nudity on the cover. Whatโs the idea behind the playfulness?
CCS: Part of it was to say we were bringing the menu back to basics. The other part was that weโre all really comfortable in who we are. [cheeky smiles] You can say โChris admits that there may have been one or two incidences of nudity in and around Bourke Street in Surry Hillsโฆ Once where the cops turned up.โC: Maybe you can tell me that story some other time over a drink or twoโฆ
He laughs.
C: How would you describe yourself? Now weโre getting to the fun partsโฆ
CCS: Ahhโฆ that sounds more scary!
Directed, happy, confident. I enjoy what I do. I just maintain that Iโm just a guy who likes to cook and knows how to do it.
C: Thatโs very humble.
CCS: I think itโs very important to really enjoy what you do.
C: Your tattoo has the statement โvivir, estar, je suisโ (to live, to be, I am). Is that how you see yourself, a mรฉlange of Spanish and French?
CCS: I still maintain that Iโm Aussie. It pisses me off in the food media that weโre branded as Spanish and French for having spent five and a half years there. Iโve also spent 24 years in Australia. I take a huge amount of influence from my time there and itโs a reminder of where Iโve been and why I am where I am now. Theyโre pieces of my life rather than directly who I am. Iโm just a northern beaches guy, from Narrabeen in Sydney.
C: Where do you get your inspiration from?
CCS: Just having fun with food, not taking things seriously. I think chefs in Europe spend so many hours in kitchen, with little life-work balance. I think thatโs the Australian influence talking there, and being a relaxed northern beaches boy.
I donโt think we have so much of a culture here in Australia, but we have a lifestyle. I think taking inspiration from your lifestyle is very important.
C: You seem to have a lot of energy about you. What drives you?
CCS: I guess itโs just having a direction and enjoying what I do.
C: Whatโs a normal day in the life of Chris and what do you do to relax?
CCS: I work from home a bit. I take my dog for a walk every morning. Iโm always planning something, an upcoming dinner in the restaurant or another venture. I like to hang out with my girlfriend, go to dinners and be social.
C: Music is part of the Emmilou experience. Do you have many favourite artists?
CCS: Lots! Phoenix. Sade. Sound Providers. Alliance Ethnik, a French hip hop group from the 90s. A lot of French customers canโt believe it when they hear it here. Itโs like being in a little bar in Paris and hearing Regulate by Warren G [checks his iPhone] Friendly Fires. Gorillaz. Jack Johnson. Frank Sinatra. BB King, old French stuffโฆ
C: Do you do much cooking at home?
CCS: At the moment, yes.
C: What do you cook at home to impress someone?
CCS: Ha! [laughs] Lately Iโve been getting the most amazing steak from Victor Churchill and serving it simply with carrot purรฉe, sautรฉed spinach in garlic and jus. Iโve recently decked out the dining room and Iโm so comfortable sitting at home and cooking my own food and having dinner with friends.
C: Tell me about your ideal woman.
CCS: Somebody who is focussed, driven by her own passions. Thatโs one of the biggest turn-ons for me. Caring, fun, and a bit crazy.
C: You mentioned earlier that you now have a serious girlfriendโฆ
CCS: Yes this is true, Iโm really happy. Her name is Lyndsey Rodrigues and she is an incredible, motivated, intelligent human being. Sheโs a very talented TV presenter who has hosted shows both here and in New York. Weโre off to Vietnam and Cambodia the near future (first for both of us) and we canโt wait!
C: When you started in your career, the concept of celebrity chefs was relatively unknown. How do you deal with being one?
CCS: [laughs] Iโm not a celebrity chef.
C: Youโve been on TV, done commercials, and the media labels you as one.
CCS: I donโt think that any chef who appears on TV should be labelled a celebrity chef. Itโs for chefs that mainly do TV work.
C: You donโt see yourself as one?
CCS: Iโm very careful in reflecting myself in the shows I do. Ready Steady Cook was probably the hardest because it was typecast with cheffy chefs. I asked if I can I dumb it down a bit, they said no. I didnโt feel I got to reflect myself. On The Circle, I can turn up and do what I do. It just happens that there are cameras on you rather than you feel youโre being asked to be someone youโre not.
C: Has it changed you in any way?
CCS: No. I like that itโs an extra medium to draw people into the business. Itโs another way of getting to show who I am rather than just advertising the restaurant through the website and other online means.
C: How do you deal with the celebrity status and with the public, men and women having a crush on you?
CCS: [laughs out loud] I donโt know. They donโt always tell me about it!
C: You donโt always tell someone you have a crush on them! It can be a quiet or distant adorationโฆ
CCS: Iโm very good at diffusing any situation that is uncomfortable via means of being me, chatting away and steering conversation in a different direction. Iโve always been a people person.
He twirls the silver ring on his thumb, then puts it on another finger.
C: With celebrity chefs being the craze for some time now, do you think it has reached saturation point?
CCS: No. I think itโs great for the industry. What I would like to see instead of the same faces at every food festival is a more general interest across the industry, handpicking different chefs across a wide range who have a presence and can talk on stage. Itโs far more useful than just the same individuals but these have PR companies behind them and itโs just business at the end of the day.
C: With your experience working and living in Europe and travelling the world, what do you think is lacking in the Sydney dining scene?
CCS: The problem is the general licensing rules which ultimately determine our dining and drinking culture. They impose general restrictions that weโre all bound by.
C: With the media glamorising the profession, what advice would you give someone considering a career as a chef?
CCS: Spend as much time as you can around the industry. Have as much knowledge at hand in order to make the decision. And have some goals as to what you want to achieve by being a chef. For me, it was travelling, the lifestyle and possible freedom that the job could bring.
Darkness has set and Emmilou takes on a seductive glow. Soft lighting is bathing the red walls, the gentle flicker of candles on the tables adds a romantic touch and a chillout tune is filling the evening air.
C: What projects are you currently working on?
CCS: Weโve just finished planning all the events for Crave Sydney Good Food Month (SIFF). We also try to do something different every month, and have fun with it. We did a few music theme nights last year, like the Frank Sinatra night where we researched food going back to his time. We try to come up with a fun idea, research it and put together a cool event.
C: Anything on the horizon for Emmilou 2?
CCS: I would like to but Iโm not in a rush. With unrealistic rents at the moment, I have an obligation not to lock into it. The time will come but Iโm not in a hurry just to get an Emmilou 2.
C: Any other plans in the near future?
CCS: I’m just about to put pen to paper on a big new site in Surry Hills **. The concept at this stage is a cantina and Tequila bar. It’s about 3 times the size of Emmilou and will incorporate a lounge bar perfect for groups, parties, cocktail courses and all sorts of celebrations, whilst the cantina side of it will be a vibrant communal dining sort of set up. The rent is really reasonable so the price point will be very accessible. This is a year and a half in the works so it’s a very exciting time.
** Edit 22/09/2011 – Chris Cranswick-Smith in conjunction with some partners is opening a very Northern Beaches version of Emmilou as a cafรฉ/wine bar. Wild Bunch Food & Wine will open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days from mid December.
C: If you were to sum up Chris Cranswick-Smith, food and travel, what would you say?
CCS: I’m hungry ๐
With thanks to Chris Cranswick-Smith for the candid interview and for being incredibly generous with his time.
Emmilou Tapas Bar
413 Bourke Street
Surry Hills Sydney NSW 2010
http://www.emmilou.com.au
Photo credits: Chris Cranswick-Smith; *Photos of modelling shoot by Glenn Marsden Photography http://www.glennmarsdenphotography.com – All photographs used with permission.
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That punchline is awesome. “I’m hungry”
Sage words. Sage words, indeed.
Isn’t it… and it can be open to interpretation!
What a great interview. Hip, vibrant and sexy, indeed! It’s wonderful that Chris was encouraged from a young age to follow his interest in cooking. Would love a chance to experience Emmilou when my travels take me to Australia.
Thanks Cathy. It’s lovely to have such encouraging parents to nurture a child’s ambition. I hope my young foodie nephew takes inspiration from Chris’ story. And I’d love to take you to Emmilou when you come to Sydney!
A very interesting interview ๐ Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Sennia – There’s certainly a lot there that I identify with. Glad you enjoyed it ๐
I love hearing the story behind interesting people. Great interview, Corinne, packed with info!
Thanks Nicole! Like I said at the start of the interview, I was intrigued by the little I knew about Chris. By the end of the interview, I had even more admiration for him and his parents’ influence. As for all the info, I’m grateful he accommodated all my questions ๐
@Gourmantic Love the interview with the surfer chef too. Can we expect more of these interviews?
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Nice one Corinne! ๐
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Insightful interview and a good read – well done and congrats on Gourmantic’s next step! ๐
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Fantastic article! Congratulations!
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Nice one Corinne!
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Interview with a great Aussie chef – well worth reading – Check it out @Gourmantic tinyurl.com/3ukhs4v
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Gr8 interview! < RT @Gourmantic: Interview w/ Chris Cranswick-Smith: The Man Behind the Chef of @emmiloutapasbar http://bit.ly/nwU8Ny
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Great interview, Corinne!! ๐ Sounds like a committed and happy guy and that’s awesome. ๐
Thanks Krista – I’m pleased you were able to draw that from the interview ๐
Looks like he had some incredible experience in Europe. Great interview Corinne.
I’d say some amazing experiences! Thank you for the compliment.
Great interview, Corinne! Thanks for introducing us to such a fascinating chef and person.
Thanks Margo. It’s an absolute pleasure to present an inspiring chef and all-round lovely person!
Nicely done! Great insights into Chris’ early years and what an impressionable young mind with a lot of drive can achieve. A charismatic chef too ๐
Congrats Corinne and I hope we see more interviews like this ๐
Glad you enjoyed it, Bella. I too was very impressed with Chris’ younger years, his parents encouragement and his determination and focus. I totally agree with you. He’s charismatic, charming and as I wrote in an earlier post, I could talk to him for hours.
Thank you for the encouragement. I look forward to presenting more interview with inspirational people ๐
Great interview! Insightful, engaging and shows his personality – well done, Ms G ๐
PS From your intro and my interpretation of Gourmantic, I can tell you have common interests with Chris. You must have been right in your element during the interview!
Thank you ๐ I’m so pleased to know the interview revealed his personality!
PS It’s true, there were many points in common between us – too many to mention here! But since the interview is about Chris (and not me) I wasn’t going to draw out similarities. As for being in my element during the interview, I’ll just call it an “amazing” experience!
Hummm, definitely โhip vibrant and sexyโ!
Umm… the interview, Chris or Emmilou? Or all three? Do tell… ๐
Loved the questions you asked, they were both personable and gave us an insight into the life of a great chef who has done so much at such a young age. I can imagine the challenges working on a luxury yacht!
Hi Adrian and welcome ๐ Thanks very much for the great feedback! I wanted to present a deeper insight into Chris’ life and the influences that shaped him into the person he is today, hence the focus on “the man behind the chef” ๐
fun interview. And, i think opening a place that is ‘a place you’d go yourself’ is the best way!
It was a lot of fun to do the interview, especially with some questions! ๐ A place that is a reflection of yourself is something you hold close to your heart and can be the key to success. I can relate to that!
Thanks so much for to Gourmantic for the wonderful profile on the yester-years of Emmilou’s chef Chris… http://fb.me/RR9OHW1G
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Really enjoyed reading of Chris’s background and path in hospitality.
Many thanks and looking forward to reading more on Gourmantic about chefs.
Thanks Craig. I think Chris’ background has resonated with many readers, as it did with me when I first learnt about it. It’s been a pleasure working Chris and I look forward to bringing more interviews to Gourmantic!
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